As the last village I would visit in the first training series we would go out to Ha Seng. This is a village about 15 kilometers north of Semonkong town but yet it takes us about two hours to travel the rough furrowed road. The area is beautiful out that way with long vistas of the surrounding valleys and mountain sides.
This village had one of the best attendance records yet. The group of farmers, mothers and fathers all gathered in one of the two old school houses. It was surely a throw back to their time in the same spot. By the look of the building it was probably that old. I was in utter shock to think kids were trying to learn math, Sesotho, English, and science in this kind of place. Not even in the third world should there not be enough seating for the kids such that seniority determined who sat on the cardboard in front of the benches. Sitting on a bench wasn’t much of an upgrade. The nails from the boards hammered together were pounded down and the whole bench was propped up with pieces of block; not even a whole block. The windows were great if Lesotho was overly hot all year long but on this day holes in the wall let us know just how cold it was outside. Horizontal rain flew in on the westerly side poke-a-dotting the kids’ back-packs. If they weren’t already empty because the school can’t afford books or the kids, school supplies, someone may have saved them to a dryer place.
I was struck stiff when I looked over and saw how someone had placed a piece of the kids’ cardboard under my back-pack. Kids must sit on the dusty dung floor but my pack wasn’t allowed to get dirty. There is clearly something wrong here!
There are a series of pictures I have posted online and I will provide a link so people may see what some kids have as their learning environment. What a disappointment and yet the ministry officials all get a brand new Lexus. Yes, I’m upset!
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Me’ Nthabileng is sooooo excited. I talked with Semonkong Lodge here in town about her wool spinning. The way I see it is if she is willing to put the extra time into spinning the stuff I’m am more than willing to go to bat for the woman and find some places to sell the stuff. The Lodge is always looking to help out if they can get some good stuff. Their gift shop is loaded with talented Basotho work for sale with the money going to those individuals. When I told Me’ she was just grinning and said she would get some samples prepared to take down in two weeks. Anyone want some hand spun wool?!!!
Our current Peace Corps director just heard that he has been accepted to a new post in Ghana as their PC director. It’s a good move for someone who actually served up there during his own PCV service. I wish him luck as he moves to more familiar grounds in Africa. He was a good boss who respected volunteers more like adults than most (as heard from the international PCV gossip channel!). A strong emphasis on PCV collaboration and technology integration was another priority that I hope isn’t lost after he’s gone.
Such is Peace Corps where there is always a constant turnover of people. Just as you get in a groove with people three months pass and something else is going to change!
Such is Peace Corps where there is always a constant turnover of people. Just as you get in a groove with people three months pass and something else is going to change!
Patrick, a Zambian Peace Corps Volunteer, came to Semonkong to visit for a couple days this week (September 9-11). This is actually his last stop on a trip that took him through Zambia, Nigeria, South Africa (Capetown), and Lesotho. He’s headed out on Saturday for the USA. I wish him the best after a good couple days hanging out and showing him around. I’m sure the guy has left quit the impact back in Zambia and that people will be eating the fish out of those ponds he helped build for many years to come. The weather in the ‘Kong took a turn for the cold on Wednesday night just to give Patrick a taste of Lesotho. He’s from Maryland and is soft after two years in warm Zambia so it’s more of a favor to weatherize him for the coming winter!
Well, the second week of trainings is finished. Of the eight villages scheduled for this round of trainings, five were able to cooperate with us to get people together on their training day. Chiefs in the other three all forgot to let others know about the event which Me’ Mokhoase and I have rescheduled. For the most part, I feel this has been a real success. Before we started people were saying I would be unable to draw people out for anything without offering food. Their pessimism fed a small doubt in me but I was curious to see how many people were willing to still listen. I also consider those that come out to be more interested in hearing something new rather than just waiting for free food. In total we have talked with over one hundred people.
It has been amazing to have Me’ Mokhoase conduct the sessions. She actually asked if she could help present and has shined. Not only is she able to address the points I have set out with accuracy but she also makes a point to emphasize the reasoning I’ve provided to give people explanation as to why we are working in a certain way. Her enthusiasm is contagious. As I watch people listen and hear their questions it is clear that she pays attention to detailed explanation and is maintaining the audience. She is not shying away from future trips to the villages and is already talking about what is next.
It has been amazing to have Me’ Mokhoase conduct the sessions. She actually asked if she could help present and has shined. Not only is she able to address the points I have set out with accuracy but she also makes a point to emphasize the reasoning I’ve provided to give people explanation as to why we are working in a certain way. Her enthusiasm is contagious. As I watch people listen and hear their questions it is clear that she pays attention to detailed explanation and is maintaining the audience. She is not shying away from future trips to the villages and is already talking about what is next.
Technology: Friend or Foe?
On Sunday I got in around lunchtime from Maseru. Looking at my house, I realized a thorough cleaning was in order, especially if I was going to have a visitor this week. Everything got wiped down, swept, mopped, and scrubbed. By the time I got to the pile of clothes on the floor it was late in the afternoon. I wouldn’t even have started it if I didn’t know that this week was going to be busy with trips to the villages. It hadn’t been long after I started washing when Tim came over. There was a frustrated look about his eyes and he walked with an exhausted gate. The people over at the TabithaCare office had been writing their trimester report and a serious problem had arisen just as they were preparing to submit it to the main office. Tim was coming over as a last chance attempt to solve the problem and thus make all their work worth something. Being oh-so busy with unwanted laundry, I dropped everything and came right then!
Technology can be a frustrating thing. There are any numbers of things that can cause overwhelming frustration but as I have learned—at times the hard way—it does not always need to be this difficult.
The people in the office were very frustrated by the time I was called. It was late in the afternoon and as the skies over Semonkong turned there usual dark blue and purple the light inside started to out compete the light outside. The three people in the office were huddled around the one desktop. This computer and I already have a history. Multiple times I have come over to check on one thing or another and my opinion of it doesn’t hover much above modest disdain. Because of this I understand their frustrations!
One of the office people, however, made a statement of hatred for how aweful technology is for them. I could not reisit defending technology as a tool that we must learn to wield like any other. You can't give me the cow pulled plough any more than I give any one person in Semonkong a computer and expect great things without first learning how to make good things happen. This was the manager who made the statement and he agreed. I sowed the seeds for future conversations about their computers if they so wished.
TabithaCare is the support and preventative arm of DocorsAide which works with the clinic here at the mission. This group works with support groups, families, and communities to improve HIV/AIDS mitigation and community responses.
The desktop sits by the window of a room no bigger than some people’s bathrooms ( an average sixe bathroom in the states). There are several calendars on the walls from several organizations. Undoubtedly they are free because NGO’s rarely have the funds to pay for aesthetics in the office space. Without the calendars the dingy wall would simply drain any enthusiasm for work all together. [May I note that these are all the expectations of an overly conditioned American who has grown up to expect a certain environment in the office. Whether research conclusions determining dingy offices are a factor to decreased productivity is a nugget of thought for another day!]
Anyway, we worked everything out and got the file sent. I’ve advised them to find some time when we can set up computer procedures that would help keep the computer clean. They are more than enthusiastic. As a side note I think we should discuss procrastination as a bad habit too so they aren’t sending the next trimester report a day later at 6 pm with worried eyes and tight shoulders.
Update: On Monday, they asked me to come back and help them out again. They were working on that same report again. Yep, We are going to talk about how to keep deadlines!!!
Technology can be a frustrating thing. There are any numbers of things that can cause overwhelming frustration but as I have learned—at times the hard way—it does not always need to be this difficult.
The people in the office were very frustrated by the time I was called. It was late in the afternoon and as the skies over Semonkong turned there usual dark blue and purple the light inside started to out compete the light outside. The three people in the office were huddled around the one desktop. This computer and I already have a history. Multiple times I have come over to check on one thing or another and my opinion of it doesn’t hover much above modest disdain. Because of this I understand their frustrations!
One of the office people, however, made a statement of hatred for how aweful technology is for them. I could not reisit defending technology as a tool that we must learn to wield like any other. You can't give me the cow pulled plough any more than I give any one person in Semonkong a computer and expect great things without first learning how to make good things happen. This was the manager who made the statement and he agreed. I sowed the seeds for future conversations about their computers if they so wished.
TabithaCare is the support and preventative arm of DocorsAide which works with the clinic here at the mission. This group works with support groups, families, and communities to improve HIV/AIDS mitigation and community responses.
The desktop sits by the window of a room no bigger than some people’s bathrooms ( an average sixe bathroom in the states). There are several calendars on the walls from several organizations. Undoubtedly they are free because NGO’s rarely have the funds to pay for aesthetics in the office space. Without the calendars the dingy wall would simply drain any enthusiasm for work all together. [May I note that these are all the expectations of an overly conditioned American who has grown up to expect a certain environment in the office. Whether research conclusions determining dingy offices are a factor to decreased productivity is a nugget of thought for another day!]
Anyway, we worked everything out and got the file sent. I’ve advised them to find some time when we can set up computer procedures that would help keep the computer clean. They are more than enthusiastic. As a side note I think we should discuss procrastination as a bad habit too so they aren’t sending the next trimester report a day later at 6 pm with worried eyes and tight shoulders.
Update: On Monday, they asked me to come back and help them out again. They were working on that same report again. Yep, We are going to talk about how to keep deadlines!!!
The longer I stay here the more subtle my powers of observation pick up of my environment. Just the other day I was in Ha Sethua-Majoe (the village name means ‘the stone cutters’) a village north west of town. By this time I have visited quite a few villages, been in many homes to sit down with a cup of matoho while people surround the place to watch me drink the fermented sorghum. This gives me a context with which to view these homes as statements of the people that live in the compound.
I come to Semonkong with little history of the people living here. The numerous villages I work with all have their wealthy, their poor, their active and intelligent, and the lazy of the whole bunch. That simply resembles the human dynamic that generally exists among all kinds of people. Novelty arose in the observation of how someone may have used multiple different pieces of scrap to construct a fence, link that to a shelter for a set of animals, or integrate all of this into a simple farming system that allows more efficient collection of farm manure to be used in the fields. I recognized a tinkerer in my visit to Ha Sethua-Majoe. This was the home of an older man with him, his wife and their two grand children. The first thing that caught my eye was the amount of things lying around his place. Instead of a random junk look there was an organization and intent within the chaos. Noticeably much of the material used to construct his animal pins, shelters, even a storage building—something I rarely see outside of the house people live in—all this utilized the collection of ‘junk’ this man had amassed.
I’ve similarly noticed a woman in Maseru who owns a plate place—a place where you can buy a ‘plate’ of food as Lesotho’s version of a simple restaurant. In a tin building inside the rank are a line of different vendors all selling ‘plates’ and at first glance everyone looks to fend for themselves. The first time I walked into this place I could tell much but this woman caught my eye as she formed a conveyor of Styrofoam containers for multiple orders. To get at idea of the best, I found the busiest! I also later noticed that it was not just her working but that she was directing three other people.
Maybe I am getting excited about something simple but delegating tasks in a business and doing it well are a skill that even managers in the states struggle to do successfully. It’s also a relatively big step from your own little stall to a multi-station unit that requires multi-tasking.
Anyway, my powers of observation just give me a better chance to give props to this woman and all those successful people doing well in their communities.
I come to Semonkong with little history of the people living here. The numerous villages I work with all have their wealthy, their poor, their active and intelligent, and the lazy of the whole bunch. That simply resembles the human dynamic that generally exists among all kinds of people. Novelty arose in the observation of how someone may have used multiple different pieces of scrap to construct a fence, link that to a shelter for a set of animals, or integrate all of this into a simple farming system that allows more efficient collection of farm manure to be used in the fields. I recognized a tinkerer in my visit to Ha Sethua-Majoe. This was the home of an older man with him, his wife and their two grand children. The first thing that caught my eye was the amount of things lying around his place. Instead of a random junk look there was an organization and intent within the chaos. Noticeably much of the material used to construct his animal pins, shelters, even a storage building—something I rarely see outside of the house people live in—all this utilized the collection of ‘junk’ this man had amassed.
I’ve similarly noticed a woman in Maseru who owns a plate place—a place where you can buy a ‘plate’ of food as Lesotho’s version of a simple restaurant. In a tin building inside the rank are a line of different vendors all selling ‘plates’ and at first glance everyone looks to fend for themselves. The first time I walked into this place I could tell much but this woman caught my eye as she formed a conveyor of Styrofoam containers for multiple orders. To get at idea of the best, I found the busiest! I also later noticed that it was not just her working but that she was directing three other people.
Maybe I am getting excited about something simple but delegating tasks in a business and doing it well are a skill that even managers in the states struggle to do successfully. It’s also a relatively big step from your own little stall to a multi-station unit that requires multi-tasking.
Anyway, my powers of observation just give me a better chance to give props to this woman and all those successful people doing well in their communities.
Now for what you've all been waiting for. It's saukraut time! Get out your Hefenweizzen, Leder hozen, and bourwaurst. Yea, I know you're asking the same question: I have five large heads of cabbage, an empty 20 lt bucket, and a cup of salt, why didn't I think saurkraut?! For those who don't like the stuff let me propose a hypothetical: Saukraut or accordion? Both German, both out of the Element in Lesotho, but only one cure, a hangover and it belongs on a kombi! Yea, No! Anyway, If anyone is interested in learning more I can keep you posted. I'm doing it alos in search of those old country methods of preserving some winter din'din. Who's for papa and saukraut?! It'll catch but only if you sing about it. And I'm taking the accordion on the road.
A Delicate Fate
It is not the name but the story that is important so I've changed it because I don't need to worry about telling someone else's business to the world.
There's a lot going through my mind right now. About now is when technology should hurry and provide some brain wave scan that would correlate that to some wonderfully concise adjectives. That would at least give me something.
The facts are:
· Headed to Ha Sechache village today for another training.
· I had a walk-and-talk with a local teacher on the way who invited me to visit her school with my agriculture training. (we also talked about the ever so common pig raising project)
· I stopped by Ntate Likiso's house. This is a farmer I've worked with on several activities. He is very outward, talkative, and knows some English to go along with my Sesotho. When you get him and Ntate Matsistsi together they are a comedic show.
· Likiso was found in his bed where he had been for four days. He had a gaunt, tired look on his face, and there on the night stand were his ART drugs. Likiso is HIV positive I am sure and I have known for a while. To see him, a man I think highly of in a dibilitated state too tired to even go outside in the sun, is painful to see.
· I must still move on leaving Likiso with the only things I have with me, a pack of Cheez-it crackers and a drink package because it is 'enhanced' with vitamins and minerals the lack of which is partly keeping Likiso prisoner.
· At the Chief's place I met the Chief and his guys (men who basically just hang out up there but have official titles that escape me right now). No one had any idea about my coming or why I was there. Ha Phallang, my first village, spoiled me with their attendance and communication.
· Trying to rectify the situation I talked to the teachers again and asked if they were still wanting me to some. Some villagers were quickly collected and I convinced everyone to combine the training and have it in the school. I'd be “killing two birds with one stone” the teacher was saying so as to convince me further to come to her school. (she was more than excited not to be teaching today. I remember how teachers are Mom!)
· In my training, one of the things I encourage people not to do is kill the birds along with all the other creatures that we identify as “friends” who help us keep a healthy and happy farm. People still think I'm crazy to want snakes alive and well in Semonkong.
· I caught a lift back to town with a delivery man from South Africa who loves Michael Jackson. His favorite song is “Baby Be Mine”. There was no CD player in the delivery truck, however. :(
· Back at the mission I get a visit from a recent transplant from Maseru, Felix. He and his wife moved to Semonkong because of his job with a Dutch NGO operating here. Also directly affiliated with the mission clinic, they do HIV/AIDS education, counseling, drug adherence, clinic and pharmacy management, support group activities and OVCs (orphans). They do it all. Felix and his wife are young, speak English, and are people I can relate to more easily so we can hang out more.
· Felix and I headed to his office where he shared proofs of the massage mismanagement happening at the clinic. Given my day's start and the sight of Likiso sick in bed, this frustrated me to no end. Why had all the money allocated for vitamins, for maintenance of the pharmacy stock and drug defaulter outreach not been used?
· Felix was asking me to help him design a way to maintain better records, monitoring and evaluation of the clinic and NGO's activities through the computer. The idea is to set up a system using people, resources, and the computer to better manage all the activities as one big database of information.
· I headed home after we met and thought how useless I felt this morning seeing Likiso there in bed. There was still a strong frustration with why people did so little with so much (a fortune that just sat). Then, all in the same day, there is an opportunity to maybe help things along.
It's impossible not to think there is some game of coincidence at play here. I must personally hope so as I consider how utterly surreal it has felt not to be much of a help in the morning and then to be faced with the other end of that spectrum in the evening. I have no hopes of changing anything honestly. I'll help Felix as much as I can. I will talk to as many people as my time and their patience will offer but I can't do it all for them. This is a tough truth.
The reality is where ever Likiso and other HIV positive individuals might have been wronged because of chaos that is Lesotho's response to this pandemic, there is not much that I can do but tread water along side those in the muck. People like Felix are the answer. Him and his wife are educated Basotho working in the Health field. They are staying in Lesotho. Something promising in a sea of ripples might just mean my single ripple will have some effect.\
There is an Indian (from India) saying about death that says, “When someone dies a piece of those who knew them dies with that person to keep them company.” Yea, I'll let a bit of myself die for Likiso.
It is not the name but the story that is important so I've changed it because I don't need to worry about telling someone else's business to the world.
There's a lot going through my mind right now. About now is when technology should hurry and provide some brain wave scan that would correlate that to some wonderfully concise adjectives. That would at least give me something.
The facts are:
· Headed to Ha Sechache village today for another training.
· I had a walk-and-talk with a local teacher on the way who invited me to visit her school with my agriculture training. (we also talked about the ever so common pig raising project)
· I stopped by Ntate Likiso's house. This is a farmer I've worked with on several activities. He is very outward, talkative, and knows some English to go along with my Sesotho. When you get him and Ntate Matsistsi together they are a comedic show.
· Likiso was found in his bed where he had been for four days. He had a gaunt, tired look on his face, and there on the night stand were his ART drugs. Likiso is HIV positive I am sure and I have known for a while. To see him, a man I think highly of in a dibilitated state too tired to even go outside in the sun, is painful to see.
· I must still move on leaving Likiso with the only things I have with me, a pack of Cheez-it crackers and a drink package because it is 'enhanced' with vitamins and minerals the lack of which is partly keeping Likiso prisoner.
· At the Chief's place I met the Chief and his guys (men who basically just hang out up there but have official titles that escape me right now). No one had any idea about my coming or why I was there. Ha Phallang, my first village, spoiled me with their attendance and communication.
· Trying to rectify the situation I talked to the teachers again and asked if they were still wanting me to some. Some villagers were quickly collected and I convinced everyone to combine the training and have it in the school. I'd be “killing two birds with one stone” the teacher was saying so as to convince me further to come to her school. (she was more than excited not to be teaching today. I remember how teachers are Mom!)
· In my training, one of the things I encourage people not to do is kill the birds along with all the other creatures that we identify as “friends” who help us keep a healthy and happy farm. People still think I'm crazy to want snakes alive and well in Semonkong.
· I caught a lift back to town with a delivery man from South Africa who loves Michael Jackson. His favorite song is “Baby Be Mine”. There was no CD player in the delivery truck, however. :(
· Back at the mission I get a visit from a recent transplant from Maseru, Felix. He and his wife moved to Semonkong because of his job with a Dutch NGO operating here. Also directly affiliated with the mission clinic, they do HIV/AIDS education, counseling, drug adherence, clinic and pharmacy management, support group activities and OVCs (orphans). They do it all. Felix and his wife are young, speak English, and are people I can relate to more easily so we can hang out more.
· Felix and I headed to his office where he shared proofs of the massage mismanagement happening at the clinic. Given my day's start and the sight of Likiso sick in bed, this frustrated me to no end. Why had all the money allocated for vitamins, for maintenance of the pharmacy stock and drug defaulter outreach not been used?
· Felix was asking me to help him design a way to maintain better records, monitoring and evaluation of the clinic and NGO's activities through the computer. The idea is to set up a system using people, resources, and the computer to better manage all the activities as one big database of information.
· I headed home after we met and thought how useless I felt this morning seeing Likiso there in bed. There was still a strong frustration with why people did so little with so much (a fortune that just sat). Then, all in the same day, there is an opportunity to maybe help things along.
It's impossible not to think there is some game of coincidence at play here. I must personally hope so as I consider how utterly surreal it has felt not to be much of a help in the morning and then to be faced with the other end of that spectrum in the evening. I have no hopes of changing anything honestly. I'll help Felix as much as I can. I will talk to as many people as my time and their patience will offer but I can't do it all for them. This is a tough truth.
The reality is where ever Likiso and other HIV positive individuals might have been wronged because of chaos that is Lesotho's response to this pandemic, there is not much that I can do but tread water along side those in the muck. People like Felix are the answer. Him and his wife are educated Basotho working in the Health field. They are staying in Lesotho. Something promising in a sea of ripples might just mean my single ripple will have some effect.\
There is an Indian (from India) saying about death that says, “When someone dies a piece of those who knew them dies with that person to keep them company.” Yea, I'll let a bit of myself die for Likiso.
SNake Friendly
For the next two weeks I'm headed around to each of the villages with Me Makhoase to talk about improving gardening in Semonkong. This is the first of several trips. I'm loving the chance to be out in the villages again. I get up at 5:30 to catch the morning bus out to the village. We've been talking about adding organic material to the soil and creating seed beds so we can start producing our own seeds. We talk, we share pest control methods, and I get a chance to encourage everybody not to kill everything they see. There is a reoccurring theme in my discussions with farmers. “Let Nature work for you not against you so you work smarter not harder.” Not original but effective. Don't kill snakes, don't whack birds (or let your kids) just to kill them; Yea universals have been tempting. Today a farmer asked “So you want us to live with snakes. Would you live with a snake?” he asked. It's tough to argue with that cause I can't say I would. I, however, can't say people need to go searching for them either. There are stories of herb boys coming across snakes in the mountains. The snake would stalk the guy and from a higher ledge leap straight up in the air and turn vertical coming down onto their head. This is a true story to them and I've heard it numerous times from many different people. Of course, these farmers are also the onces that think earth worms and slugs as snakes too. Where's a Jack Hanna when you need one!
OCEAN ADVENTURES
One of the reasons it has been so long since my last posting is because I went on a little trip. Before I go any further I should admit that this post may start to sound like an info-mercial and for that I will apologize in advance. I left to get scuba certified and have come out the other side with a new found respect for the ocean and excitement for everything in the water. I can’t help myself but know to others it may sound a little obsessive or even premature—though this post is being written almost a month after the trip. The excitement has not worn off and my enthusiasm has spread. Not in any small way related to my blabbering about this trip have others started to plan their own vacations to the same area I visited. Word of mouth is wondrous.
Hearing about this place from someone else is what got me interested in the first place. They were no where nearly as excited about the place as I am but still strongly encouraged me to get certified out there. I don’t regret a second or a dime of the time and money it took to get out there. It truly is a one of a kind place.
Becky, Ro, Kevin and I all headed out to Sodwana Bay, South Africa for a week by the beach. We didn’t know much about the area. Other than a trip to Durban or two, we hadn’t been to very many places in South Africa. With open minds and an increasing excitement for a break from our usual routines we rented a car and headed east. Heading there we broke the trip up into two days. Partly we had to with the amount of dawdling we did in Bloem but we were on vacation so time isn’t so important! That night we tracked down a great, and inexpensive, B&B called Oak Tree Manor Bed and Breakfast. They were very accommodating with their furnishings, food, and prices compared to other much more expensive but similar establishments. James and Regi Marshall were really welcoming and nice as well.
The next day we set out to arrive in Sodwana Bay. There isn’t actually much to Sodwana Bay since it is set inside the larger St. Lucia wetlands reserve, a piece of land and ocean set aside for wildlife protection. Mbazwana is the closest town having a Spar (grocery) and a fully stocked liquor store for all beach necessities! The area just outside the entrance to the reserve has quite a few nice lodgings which we could have stayed at but instead decided to head through the reserve to the other side. Passing through the second gate we made it to Mseni Lodge (www.mseni.co.za), the only accommodation in the area with direct beach access—this makes it well worth the cost to stay.
Of course, almost immediately we all took one trip to our lodging, a decent self-catering unit for five, put our stuff down and went straight to the beach. There was a five minute walk through a canopy of low sub-tropical trees along a board walk to the beach. Our enthusiasm grew even more with the walk but nothing prepared us for the beautifully majestic beach.
We were walking down a half forest, half sand dune of tree and sand toward the Indian Ocean. The wind blew head into us from the east. Once we hit the end of the boardwalk and the beginning of the sandy beach we found ourselves at the top of a huge sand dune. The fine grains, wind blown and ocean tumbled, were stacked billions upon billions into these gradual mounds that eased into the forest but looked as if they crept out toward the ocean waiting for the right time to return to the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.
The water was a palette of blues blended up and into the white tops that were tumbling down upon themselves. It’s here that I fell in love with this place. The evening air and shadows of light and dark were so completely different from where I had just come from that it had a mystical aura. This would only prove truer in the morning as the sun emerged from the horizon to highlight those lights and darks in a new manner bringing the coast alive. Surely this could be the place for someone’s religious experience where man and nature commune. If you get a chance, take a look at my pictures on Facebook.
The next day we started out scuba diving class. It’s a pretty technical course and there is a lot of information gone over in a short period of time. With a streamlined training that builds upon itself, the information is quickly tied to the actual practices you use making the process much more enjoyable. The first day’s series of instructional videos were a reminder of high school health classes. There was a lot covered in those videos and because of how new we all were, everything seemed just as important as the next. The next day was our pool session that made sense of the videos with practical modules for each technique.
The next day’s weather made for an exciting introduction to the ocean underworld. The wind blew strong and the waves were crashing hard. The diving companies in Sodwana—there are over 15 of them—all use a small inlet cove of the beach north of the Sodwana Reserve to birth their boats. They large boats with two outboard motors hauled down to the water by boat. When it comes time to set off, everyone stands along the outside edge of the boat and then a tractor pushes it into the shallow waters. This cove is used because of the natural rock formation that jets out into the waters just at the breakers which calms the waters and allows the boats smoother entry. Every body in, the boat is off.
That first day’s ride was wild. Several times we made a u-turn riding with the waves into shore then turned back into the oncoming tides for another try until just the right natural path formed between breaks allowing the boat to ride out beyond the breakers. Turbulence, high cresting waves, and a strong wind formed a natural rock and roll symphony that geared us up for a wild first dive.
Gear checked, all in and we were under water. Only about twelve meters but twelve meters more than any of us had been before; our mission this dive was to “get used to the equipment and the feeling of breathing under water.” Brief mention was made of a current that would ebb and flow today with the rise of the turbulent winds. Underwater that equated to an invisible force that tugged the four of us in every which direction letting up only once we surfaced after an hour. Our first dive was a test of determination.
We didn’t dive the second time opting to check on conditions tomorrow to make three dives that day. The next morning, however, the weather didn’t let up as predicted so the winds kept blowing and we chose to wait an additional day hoping for calmer seas. This gave us a relaxing day that we used to explore Mkuzi Game Reserve. This place is supposed to be famous for its Hippo and Rhino populations. Since we haven’t seen the rainy season yet they weren’t viewable. Instead we saw a great deal of different deer like animals, some zebra, and wild boar—the wildest and fastest thing we saw. I have to admit the wild boar were pretty interesting as they scattered and then posed for pictures with ears and tusk poised for a charge if threatened any further. They stood ready as if telling us we shouldn’t get out of the car! It was a nice drive and it was fun to search for something and then see more wildlife in a day than we have ever seen in Lesotho.
Dinners were primarily cooked on the grill. My major secondary project in Peace Corps has been to perfect my grilling ability. From start to finish I’ve been working and this week proved a success with well cooked steaks, awesome burgers, and some fish that was amazing—more on that later. The only thing I don’t understand is why everyone here insists on using fuel blocks to start their charcoal instead of lighter fluid. I’ve yet to see any liquid fluid instead there are only the blocks. Kevin and I worked on determining what our own method of starting the grill would be but figured we would also start consulting locals to find out what they do as well.
The day after our game run the weather was fantastic. The winds had died down, the water had calmed and flattened, and the visibility underwater had increased considerably. These next three dives we would enter the water, practice several diving techniques and then go off on a regular dive of our own for the remainder. With the subtler currents we all were able to enjoy the sights and the sounds of the ocean. This first dive was such a treat with an amazing variety of fish and sea life, loggerhead turtles, and the sounds of the Humpback whale. At first I didn’t understand our instructor, Shaun’s hand signal ‘listen’ and a waving hand. Then I heard in the distance, the distinct sound of the whales calling. The tonal sounds echoed through the water to us and though you can’t tell from where they originate or from how far you know it isn’t too far just off the continental shelf.
Seeing the turtles, however, was a true highlight in our dives. In total we saw three turtles; two older turtles (one green and the other loggerhead) and one young green turtle. We contrasted severely; the smooth, gentle ease of the turtles and the jerky, novice diver. Their style is certainly something to emulate!
All three of our dives this day were spectacular for the amount of marine life we were exposed to with the greatly improved visibility we enjoyed—15 to 20 meters at times. Amoray Divers in Sodwana (mail@amoraydivers.com) were really great. Their individual attention gave the feeling of security, competence, and interest in the dive as an experience. We were a name instead of a number and our class was fully catered to our pace. I couldn’t have asked for a better introduction.
If this wasn’t enough excitement for any one vacation, we had previously set up a sea fishing trip for the following day. We went out on Richard Scott’s boat who is affiliated with the Sodwana Bay Lodge (sodwanabay@mweb.co.za, www.magnum.co.za). Magnum II was captained by Arie, a six foot + 300 lb+ guy. In his free time, I am sure he bench pressed outboard motors and maybe a small boat or two!
We all met up at 7am to make a day of fishing till 2pm. Heading out about ten miles south of where we entered we trolled for some dinner. The first 45 minutes yielded most of our catches of the day. Kevin and I both caught a large spike fish each and threw them back. Ro caught a mackerel. Then Kevin got a beautiful Yellow Fin Tuna. Both of these we kept. I got a blue job fish (at least this is what I remember the name being!) then Beckey caught some really ugly looking fish that we thankfully threw back. After that the fish got really quiet. We then headed out to deeper waters to do some drop fishing; basically dropping the line and reeling it up a bit to give a lure the look of a real fish moving in the water. The action of the lure did bring the fish. In the spirit of the reserve, no commercial fishing is allowed in the area so only small operation is permitted and all catches are catalogued with intention for home use. The sight of some of these deeper water fish is so amazing that to keep these fish would be a crime. Ro and Kevin both caught beautiful fish and though I don’t remember the name of the fish Ro brought up, Kevin got a Coral Rock Cod—a beautiful fish!
When I almost thought my luck at catching anything with drop fishing was waning I dipped and raised the rod for the last time to bring it up. Just as I began to reel something took my line and ‘zz-zzz-zz-zzz’ it went taking the line down to the backing—that last part of the line before you get the end. This fish was not only big it was deep. I immediately began rocking with the rod trying to bring the fish to the surface; down then up and reel, down then up and reel. In reality, the resistance was too great. I would drop down and ease the rod up just enough to give the fish the feeling of something tugging on the other line. I could feel the behemoth on the other line give in a bit and I would reel as steady and constant as possible. Some ground was gained but even with Arie’s guiding advice, we knew this fish was headed for deeper waters. We had to get back some of that line, get out of the backing of the reel, and gain some ground, so to speak.
Arie lead the boat around following the fish as it maneuvered, lingered, dropped and rose. It was confused like a child lost in a park full of people. Trying to take advantage of that I tried, with tremendous effort, to bring the fish which felt more like a dinosaur to the surface. My arms weakening, I began to notice an inability to let go of the rode long enough to even grasp the reel. Nothing was gained and we were running the risk of loosing more so I turned it over to Ro. He immediately felt the strength and confirmed the massive creature was alive and well on the other end.
In no time Kevin was passed the rode and we all started to gain a look of worry as to how much longer this could go on. The fantastic thought that this fish would tire of this fight for its life was quite unrealistic. As the depth of water increased the strength this fish seemed to exert proportionally fought back. From one side of the boat to the other this guy was giving us all a run.
Finally, Arie was handed the rode. A seasoned fisherman who has worked in Angola, other parts of South Africa and Mozambique for the past 11 years, he has the experience of Hemingway’s Old man and the Sea. Would we be as lucky to see what kind of sea monster we had fought with today?
Just as Arie got the rod he looked to me and said “Ah S$#T, this is a big guy! I don’t know what to say!” We had seen the sea silence this Ole’ Salt. He wrestled with the rod a bit and said that it was definitely a fish because of the feeling of its action through the water. Spouting out directions for how best to steer the boat to Ro as he worked at the fish, even Arie was looking disheartened. Unsure what we could do next, physics decided for us as the rod suddenly rod back up straight and the slack fishing line gave out. The fish had won.
Arie talked us through all the things that had happened with his professional insights. He gave his professional opinion that, with a stronger test line for our backing rather than the 30 lbs we had, there would be little doubt of our success. Also, he formed a list of likely contenders for the catch of the day. All of this is the hypothetical banter of a fisherman. I started committing it all to memory!! This is my fish’s tale!
That night’s dinner was only an amazing assortment of fresh fish and cold beers. Our last night was as awesome close to an amazing week and probably as celestial as the stars aligning, this vacation became a diamond of which I will talk about for years. At least until I catch that big fish!
Hearing about this place from someone else is what got me interested in the first place. They were no where nearly as excited about the place as I am but still strongly encouraged me to get certified out there. I don’t regret a second or a dime of the time and money it took to get out there. It truly is a one of a kind place.
Becky, Ro, Kevin and I all headed out to Sodwana Bay, South Africa for a week by the beach. We didn’t know much about the area. Other than a trip to Durban or two, we hadn’t been to very many places in South Africa. With open minds and an increasing excitement for a break from our usual routines we rented a car and headed east. Heading there we broke the trip up into two days. Partly we had to with the amount of dawdling we did in Bloem but we were on vacation so time isn’t so important! That night we tracked down a great, and inexpensive, B&B called Oak Tree Manor Bed and Breakfast. They were very accommodating with their furnishings, food, and prices compared to other much more expensive but similar establishments. James and Regi Marshall were really welcoming and nice as well.
The next day we set out to arrive in Sodwana Bay. There isn’t actually much to Sodwana Bay since it is set inside the larger St. Lucia wetlands reserve, a piece of land and ocean set aside for wildlife protection. Mbazwana is the closest town having a Spar (grocery) and a fully stocked liquor store for all beach necessities! The area just outside the entrance to the reserve has quite a few nice lodgings which we could have stayed at but instead decided to head through the reserve to the other side. Passing through the second gate we made it to Mseni Lodge (www.mseni.co.za), the only accommodation in the area with direct beach access—this makes it well worth the cost to stay.
Of course, almost immediately we all took one trip to our lodging, a decent self-catering unit for five, put our stuff down and went straight to the beach. There was a five minute walk through a canopy of low sub-tropical trees along a board walk to the beach. Our enthusiasm grew even more with the walk but nothing prepared us for the beautifully majestic beach.
We were walking down a half forest, half sand dune of tree and sand toward the Indian Ocean. The wind blew head into us from the east. Once we hit the end of the boardwalk and the beginning of the sandy beach we found ourselves at the top of a huge sand dune. The fine grains, wind blown and ocean tumbled, were stacked billions upon billions into these gradual mounds that eased into the forest but looked as if they crept out toward the ocean waiting for the right time to return to the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.
The water was a palette of blues blended up and into the white tops that were tumbling down upon themselves. It’s here that I fell in love with this place. The evening air and shadows of light and dark were so completely different from where I had just come from that it had a mystical aura. This would only prove truer in the morning as the sun emerged from the horizon to highlight those lights and darks in a new manner bringing the coast alive. Surely this could be the place for someone’s religious experience where man and nature commune. If you get a chance, take a look at my pictures on Facebook.
The next day we started out scuba diving class. It’s a pretty technical course and there is a lot of information gone over in a short period of time. With a streamlined training that builds upon itself, the information is quickly tied to the actual practices you use making the process much more enjoyable. The first day’s series of instructional videos were a reminder of high school health classes. There was a lot covered in those videos and because of how new we all were, everything seemed just as important as the next. The next day was our pool session that made sense of the videos with practical modules for each technique.
The next day’s weather made for an exciting introduction to the ocean underworld. The wind blew strong and the waves were crashing hard. The diving companies in Sodwana—there are over 15 of them—all use a small inlet cove of the beach north of the Sodwana Reserve to birth their boats. They large boats with two outboard motors hauled down to the water by boat. When it comes time to set off, everyone stands along the outside edge of the boat and then a tractor pushes it into the shallow waters. This cove is used because of the natural rock formation that jets out into the waters just at the breakers which calms the waters and allows the boats smoother entry. Every body in, the boat is off.
That first day’s ride was wild. Several times we made a u-turn riding with the waves into shore then turned back into the oncoming tides for another try until just the right natural path formed between breaks allowing the boat to ride out beyond the breakers. Turbulence, high cresting waves, and a strong wind formed a natural rock and roll symphony that geared us up for a wild first dive.
Gear checked, all in and we were under water. Only about twelve meters but twelve meters more than any of us had been before; our mission this dive was to “get used to the equipment and the feeling of breathing under water.” Brief mention was made of a current that would ebb and flow today with the rise of the turbulent winds. Underwater that equated to an invisible force that tugged the four of us in every which direction letting up only once we surfaced after an hour. Our first dive was a test of determination.
We didn’t dive the second time opting to check on conditions tomorrow to make three dives that day. The next morning, however, the weather didn’t let up as predicted so the winds kept blowing and we chose to wait an additional day hoping for calmer seas. This gave us a relaxing day that we used to explore Mkuzi Game Reserve. This place is supposed to be famous for its Hippo and Rhino populations. Since we haven’t seen the rainy season yet they weren’t viewable. Instead we saw a great deal of different deer like animals, some zebra, and wild boar—the wildest and fastest thing we saw. I have to admit the wild boar were pretty interesting as they scattered and then posed for pictures with ears and tusk poised for a charge if threatened any further. They stood ready as if telling us we shouldn’t get out of the car! It was a nice drive and it was fun to search for something and then see more wildlife in a day than we have ever seen in Lesotho.
Dinners were primarily cooked on the grill. My major secondary project in Peace Corps has been to perfect my grilling ability. From start to finish I’ve been working and this week proved a success with well cooked steaks, awesome burgers, and some fish that was amazing—more on that later. The only thing I don’t understand is why everyone here insists on using fuel blocks to start their charcoal instead of lighter fluid. I’ve yet to see any liquid fluid instead there are only the blocks. Kevin and I worked on determining what our own method of starting the grill would be but figured we would also start consulting locals to find out what they do as well.
The day after our game run the weather was fantastic. The winds had died down, the water had calmed and flattened, and the visibility underwater had increased considerably. These next three dives we would enter the water, practice several diving techniques and then go off on a regular dive of our own for the remainder. With the subtler currents we all were able to enjoy the sights and the sounds of the ocean. This first dive was such a treat with an amazing variety of fish and sea life, loggerhead turtles, and the sounds of the Humpback whale. At first I didn’t understand our instructor, Shaun’s hand signal ‘listen’ and a waving hand. Then I heard in the distance, the distinct sound of the whales calling. The tonal sounds echoed through the water to us and though you can’t tell from where they originate or from how far you know it isn’t too far just off the continental shelf.
Seeing the turtles, however, was a true highlight in our dives. In total we saw three turtles; two older turtles (one green and the other loggerhead) and one young green turtle. We contrasted severely; the smooth, gentle ease of the turtles and the jerky, novice diver. Their style is certainly something to emulate!
All three of our dives this day were spectacular for the amount of marine life we were exposed to with the greatly improved visibility we enjoyed—15 to 20 meters at times. Amoray Divers in Sodwana (mail@amoraydivers.com) were really great. Their individual attention gave the feeling of security, competence, and interest in the dive as an experience. We were a name instead of a number and our class was fully catered to our pace. I couldn’t have asked for a better introduction.
If this wasn’t enough excitement for any one vacation, we had previously set up a sea fishing trip for the following day. We went out on Richard Scott’s boat who is affiliated with the Sodwana Bay Lodge (sodwanabay@mweb.co.za, www.magnum.co.za). Magnum II was captained by Arie, a six foot + 300 lb+ guy. In his free time, I am sure he bench pressed outboard motors and maybe a small boat or two!
We all met up at 7am to make a day of fishing till 2pm. Heading out about ten miles south of where we entered we trolled for some dinner. The first 45 minutes yielded most of our catches of the day. Kevin and I both caught a large spike fish each and threw them back. Ro caught a mackerel. Then Kevin got a beautiful Yellow Fin Tuna. Both of these we kept. I got a blue job fish (at least this is what I remember the name being!) then Beckey caught some really ugly looking fish that we thankfully threw back. After that the fish got really quiet. We then headed out to deeper waters to do some drop fishing; basically dropping the line and reeling it up a bit to give a lure the look of a real fish moving in the water. The action of the lure did bring the fish. In the spirit of the reserve, no commercial fishing is allowed in the area so only small operation is permitted and all catches are catalogued with intention for home use. The sight of some of these deeper water fish is so amazing that to keep these fish would be a crime. Ro and Kevin both caught beautiful fish and though I don’t remember the name of the fish Ro brought up, Kevin got a Coral Rock Cod—a beautiful fish!
When I almost thought my luck at catching anything with drop fishing was waning I dipped and raised the rod for the last time to bring it up. Just as I began to reel something took my line and ‘zz-zzz-zz-zzz’ it went taking the line down to the backing—that last part of the line before you get the end. This fish was not only big it was deep. I immediately began rocking with the rod trying to bring the fish to the surface; down then up and reel, down then up and reel. In reality, the resistance was too great. I would drop down and ease the rod up just enough to give the fish the feeling of something tugging on the other line. I could feel the behemoth on the other line give in a bit and I would reel as steady and constant as possible. Some ground was gained but even with Arie’s guiding advice, we knew this fish was headed for deeper waters. We had to get back some of that line, get out of the backing of the reel, and gain some ground, so to speak.
Arie lead the boat around following the fish as it maneuvered, lingered, dropped and rose. It was confused like a child lost in a park full of people. Trying to take advantage of that I tried, with tremendous effort, to bring the fish which felt more like a dinosaur to the surface. My arms weakening, I began to notice an inability to let go of the rode long enough to even grasp the reel. Nothing was gained and we were running the risk of loosing more so I turned it over to Ro. He immediately felt the strength and confirmed the massive creature was alive and well on the other end.
In no time Kevin was passed the rode and we all started to gain a look of worry as to how much longer this could go on. The fantastic thought that this fish would tire of this fight for its life was quite unrealistic. As the depth of water increased the strength this fish seemed to exert proportionally fought back. From one side of the boat to the other this guy was giving us all a run.
Finally, Arie was handed the rode. A seasoned fisherman who has worked in Angola, other parts of South Africa and Mozambique for the past 11 years, he has the experience of Hemingway’s Old man and the Sea. Would we be as lucky to see what kind of sea monster we had fought with today?
Just as Arie got the rod he looked to me and said “Ah S$#T, this is a big guy! I don’t know what to say!” We had seen the sea silence this Ole’ Salt. He wrestled with the rod a bit and said that it was definitely a fish because of the feeling of its action through the water. Spouting out directions for how best to steer the boat to Ro as he worked at the fish, even Arie was looking disheartened. Unsure what we could do next, physics decided for us as the rod suddenly rod back up straight and the slack fishing line gave out. The fish had won.
Arie talked us through all the things that had happened with his professional insights. He gave his professional opinion that, with a stronger test line for our backing rather than the 30 lbs we had, there would be little doubt of our success. Also, he formed a list of likely contenders for the catch of the day. All of this is the hypothetical banter of a fisherman. I started committing it all to memory!! This is my fish’s tale!
That night’s dinner was only an amazing assortment of fresh fish and cold beers. Our last night was as awesome close to an amazing week and probably as celestial as the stars aligning, this vacation became a diamond of which I will talk about for years. At least until I catch that big fish!
Training Outlines
Home Garden Training Plan
Villages:
Phallang
Sechache
Setua-Majoe
Polateng
Ha Moahloli
Ha Mateketa
Ha Lesala/ Lesia
Ha Seng (need car or horses)
Objectives:
Bring simple trainings to the villagers with practical methods
Inform villages of improved garden practices to increase home vegetable production
Encourage greater diversification and experimentation within the home garden
Bring information to the villagers at the local level with hands-on interactive trainings.
Provide information for local families that will increase home food production and provide potential income generation opportunities.
Soil Fertility, Natural Pest control, Crop rotation, Healthy garden habits
Method:
A day per village will be spent training local villagers on various gardening practices that can improve vegetable garden production.
Time table:
Spend two separate sessions in each village to train farmers; once in September and the second in December.
September Training Time table:
Phallang – Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Sechache – Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Setua-Majoe – Thursday, September 3, 2009
Polateng – Friday, September 4, 2009
Ha Moahloli – Monday, September 7, 2009
Ha Mateketa – Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Ha Lesala/Lesia – Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Ha Seng – Thursday, September 10, 2009
September Training Lesson Plan:
Introduce double digging with inclusion of manure, ash, and organic material.
Plant bobatsi seed. (Talk about next training including bobatsi seed collection methods.)
Crop rotation, crop diversification, and companion planting. (Marigolds, onion and garlic chives planted).
Helping plants and purposes.
Helping creatures in the garden.
Construct rock grow boxes and discuss purpose and advantages. (tomato planted)
December Training Time table:
Phallang – Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Sechache – Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Setua-Majoe – Thursday, December 3, 2009
Polateng – Friday, December 4, 2009
Ha Moahloli – Monday, December 7, 2009
Ha Mateketa – Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Ha Lesala/Lesia – Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Ha Seng – Thursday, December 10, 2009
December Training Lesson Plan:
Follow-up and further discussion of previous topics covered.
Bobatsi Seed collection method and an eye for the best plants.
Manure teas as aid to soil fertility.
Potato/vegetable storage mounds.
Seed multiplication of cabbage, carrot, peppers, and garlic.
Villages:
Phallang
Sechache
Setua-Majoe
Polateng
Ha Moahloli
Ha Mateketa
Ha Lesala/ Lesia
Ha Seng (need car or horses)
Objectives:
Bring simple trainings to the villagers with practical methods
Inform villages of improved garden practices to increase home vegetable production
Encourage greater diversification and experimentation within the home garden
Bring information to the villagers at the local level with hands-on interactive trainings.
Provide information for local families that will increase home food production and provide potential income generation opportunities.
Soil Fertility, Natural Pest control, Crop rotation, Healthy garden habits
Method:
A day per village will be spent training local villagers on various gardening practices that can improve vegetable garden production.
Time table:
Spend two separate sessions in each village to train farmers; once in September and the second in December.
September Training Time table:
Phallang – Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Sechache – Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Setua-Majoe – Thursday, September 3, 2009
Polateng – Friday, September 4, 2009
Ha Moahloli – Monday, September 7, 2009
Ha Mateketa – Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Ha Lesala/Lesia – Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Ha Seng – Thursday, September 10, 2009
September Training Lesson Plan:
Introduce double digging with inclusion of manure, ash, and organic material.
Plant bobatsi seed. (Talk about next training including bobatsi seed collection methods.)
Crop rotation, crop diversification, and companion planting. (Marigolds, onion and garlic chives planted).
Helping plants and purposes.
Helping creatures in the garden.
Construct rock grow boxes and discuss purpose and advantages. (tomato planted)
December Training Time table:
Phallang – Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Sechache – Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Setua-Majoe – Thursday, December 3, 2009
Polateng – Friday, December 4, 2009
Ha Moahloli – Monday, December 7, 2009
Ha Mateketa – Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Ha Lesala/Lesia – Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Ha Seng – Thursday, December 10, 2009
December Training Lesson Plan:
Follow-up and further discussion of previous topics covered.
Bobatsi Seed collection method and an eye for the best plants.
Manure teas as aid to soil fertility.
Potato/vegetable storage mounds.
Seed multiplication of cabbage, carrot, peppers, and garlic.
“Sorrow drips through your heart, through a pin hole just like a faucet, but there is comfort in the sound.” Death Cab for Cutie.
Just the other day I was approached by an acquaintance I have here in town. We met along the road which is where I meet most everybody somewhere along the way.
Our greetings were typical. Tall and thin-maybe too thin-he’s a younger guy I know who was going to college in Maseru. He’s been around Semokong for a while now. We played quite a lot of soccer when the weather was nice. His hanging around although I knew school had started back up, concerned me. He made me think something happened that made him leave school. Never before had he mentioned anything beyond that first time we met. That was until this particular day.
I don’t know the timing people feel within themselves to discuss certain things. What happened this day to drive this guy to tell me that he was ‘sick’? There isn’t much I can say or do. He feels I’m someone he wants to talk to right now on a dirt path surrounded by fields. Maybe he needs to say it out loud. Whatever the reasoning, though, I want to listen.
His eyes aren’t dodgy like I would imagine someone’s to be as they told one of their deepest secrets. Calmly he explained what happened and then, as if to reassure me, he said he was still preparing to head back to school next semester. All he needed was a doctor’s note. He needed to have someone vouch for his health. Does that seem degrading? I guess I’ve had that done for me too but really? This is what he needs to get back into school.
Good luck to him.
Just the other day I was approached by an acquaintance I have here in town. We met along the road which is where I meet most everybody somewhere along the way.
Our greetings were typical. Tall and thin-maybe too thin-he’s a younger guy I know who was going to college in Maseru. He’s been around Semokong for a while now. We played quite a lot of soccer when the weather was nice. His hanging around although I knew school had started back up, concerned me. He made me think something happened that made him leave school. Never before had he mentioned anything beyond that first time we met. That was until this particular day.
I don’t know the timing people feel within themselves to discuss certain things. What happened this day to drive this guy to tell me that he was ‘sick’? There isn’t much I can say or do. He feels I’m someone he wants to talk to right now on a dirt path surrounded by fields. Maybe he needs to say it out loud. Whatever the reasoning, though, I want to listen.
His eyes aren’t dodgy like I would imagine someone’s to be as they told one of their deepest secrets. Calmly he explained what happened and then, as if to reassure me, he said he was still preparing to head back to school next semester. All he needed was a doctor’s note. He needed to have someone vouch for his health. Does that seem degrading? I guess I’ve had that done for me too but really? This is what he needs to get back into school.
Good luck to him.
I’m the Priest’s secret weapon!
The priest at the mission is building a new sanctuary. A large part of the shell has already been built and left for more than a year. Now a new crew is coming and the priest is asking if I can’t provide a bit of encouragement to the guys to work faster. The thought is that coming from a white guy here in Semonkong people will listen. A pleading voice asking if the guys will finish the church quickly is because I am leaving in a year and want to see it finished. At one point I couldn’t tell if he really was serious or whether I was actually being asked to keep on them about their work. I’m not a foreman, get outta here! I also am pretty sure nothing happens fast around here.
The beard was a good choice. (Post from July.)
The weather shut everything down last week. Sitting in my house working up a strong feeling of cabin fever, I started to laugh when people were saying during our trainings that ‘nothing really happens during the winter’. I don’t blame them.
It’s the coldest winter people can remember. Even the Lodge owners, Jonathan and Armel were telling me it was a rather chilly and wet winter. That damp cold is worse than a dry cold any day, or night. Sitting at the computer right now, I’m wearing my ski jacket, long johns, pants, a couple long sleeve shirts, and a cup of tea to keep warm. Admittedly, the cold here may not be as drastic in number but it is in quantity. I can’t complain too much. I have a ski jacket that makes me look like the marshmallow man minus the cheese grinning face. People in the villages right now are huddled as much as they can with a blanket and a dung fire.
Another advantage I have is this pretty good beard I’ve let happen. One part lazy, one part lack of water, and one part cold make for an excellent bit of face hair. At first I thought I would get complaints. The Basotho, though they live it pretty rough, still have expectations of cleanliness people must abide. Instead, I’ve gotten comments of admiration. It doesn’t hurt that the stuff is thick like wrapping a small animal around my face. It’s warm too making it a lot easier to run in the morning.
I was meant for this kind of weather! But I’m still keeping an eye out for an end that gets us all outside working again.
It’s the coldest winter people can remember. Even the Lodge owners, Jonathan and Armel were telling me it was a rather chilly and wet winter. That damp cold is worse than a dry cold any day, or night. Sitting at the computer right now, I’m wearing my ski jacket, long johns, pants, a couple long sleeve shirts, and a cup of tea to keep warm. Admittedly, the cold here may not be as drastic in number but it is in quantity. I can’t complain too much. I have a ski jacket that makes me look like the marshmallow man minus the cheese grinning face. People in the villages right now are huddled as much as they can with a blanket and a dung fire.
Another advantage I have is this pretty good beard I’ve let happen. One part lazy, one part lack of water, and one part cold make for an excellent bit of face hair. At first I thought I would get complaints. The Basotho, though they live it pretty rough, still have expectations of cleanliness people must abide. Instead, I’ve gotten comments of admiration. It doesn’t hurt that the stuff is thick like wrapping a small animal around my face. It’s warm too making it a lot easier to run in the morning.
I was meant for this kind of weather! But I’m still keeping an eye out for an end that gets us all outside working again.
Sheep Fuzz. . .
I’ve spent the past couple days communicating back and forth with the donor from the UK who supports the Women’s spinning group here in Semonkong. It’s finally been determined that the money, meant to purchase the last two months bags of un-spun wool, has disappeared somewhere in the transfer.
I laugh because, given the current financial mess and those also most recent in our minds, it’s not the motivating factor behind thievery that has changed but the sophistication of the action. Go figure, and yet the means to prevent this from happening are still evolving. . . everywhere.
I directed this donor to another contact I had made through previous projects. Hopefully, if all goes well we can keep things on track and keep these ladies spinning some sheep fuzz.
I laugh because, given the current financial mess and those also most recent in our minds, it’s not the motivating factor behind thievery that has changed but the sophistication of the action. Go figure, and yet the means to prevent this from happening are still evolving. . . everywhere.
I directed this donor to another contact I had made through previous projects. Hopefully, if all goes well we can keep things on track and keep these ladies spinning some sheep fuzz.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Yes, I'm excited. My work is mostly looking at what KMA, my host organization is doing, and then making suggestions about how they can do their work easier or better. I can't say I have a list of many successes. If you looked at the amount of time I spend trying to do this the report would be dismal to the rate of change I've seen. That said, KMA's Maseru office is going to start using a Microsoft excel framework I made up almost six months ago.
The idea to create a database of all the farmers KMA works with isn't extreme. The need for more accurate and substantive reporting was something I complained about from the beginning and found that there was no real collection and processing of the enormous amounts of data that KMA created. Crop yields, new farm technology implementation rates and and other information was all filed away mostly written on notebook paper that was fading with disgust because it was forgotten. I made up something simple that first broke down each village to gather information about those smaller areas and then a summary system that created matrix data summaries. That all sounds really ridiculous. Really all I did was allow them to put their collected information into the computer for each farmer, each village, and then to have a complete summary ready for them to report.
Hopefully we can work on this to improve the amount of accurate information KMA can report on, particularly the amount of change they see in their farmers' activities. This all aside, let's presume that KMA will be able to find funding from a donor or evolve into something more sustainable instead of dieing the way of other NGOs without a benefactor. That won't diminish my momentary positive excitement!
The idea to create a database of all the farmers KMA works with isn't extreme. The need for more accurate and substantive reporting was something I complained about from the beginning and found that there was no real collection and processing of the enormous amounts of data that KMA created. Crop yields, new farm technology implementation rates and and other information was all filed away mostly written on notebook paper that was fading with disgust because it was forgotten. I made up something simple that first broke down each village to gather information about those smaller areas and then a summary system that created matrix data summaries. That all sounds really ridiculous. Really all I did was allow them to put their collected information into the computer for each farmer, each village, and then to have a complete summary ready for them to report.
Hopefully we can work on this to improve the amount of accurate information KMA can report on, particularly the amount of change they see in their farmers' activities. This all aside, let's presume that KMA will be able to find funding from a donor or evolve into something more sustainable instead of dieing the way of other NGOs without a benefactor. That won't diminish my momentary positive excitement!
No I have not gone crazy. It's just quiet and cold, there is no electricity, and I'm sitting out on my porch left with just my imagination !
The Song this blog is most like – Keller Williams = Lizards
Lizard
Everything is affected by the cold and compelled by the sun. The lizard's that seem to masterfully escape the grasp of hungry Basotho are no exception. Over the past year I've come to know three that live in/near my house; two medium sized and one smaller lizard, maybe a recent addition to a family. One in particular caught my attention repeatedly because it lost its tail about six months ago.
To Basotho this 'snake' (since everything scary and foreign takes on a snake like form—note to avoid scary personal attitude for the remainder of my stay) is even more mysterious and scary. Skittishly, the adults watch this deformed creature scuttle away with a frown of disgust. The kids, with more of a curious eye but a similarly unknowing fear, watch more closely. No one understands when I try to explain how the lizards aren't snakes, firstly, and second, that the tail will grow back. The permanence of change and destruction doesn't allow for conceptual understanding of re-creation quit yet. I'm not sure what that even means when I write it!
Seriously, just today while I'm writing our lizard came out again to bath in the sun, a habit both Basotho and lizards enjoy. She came out with an inch and a half stub of a tail (I gave this lizard a feminine persona because of her glittery turquoise pink orange color that shimmers in the sun but I do yield that it could equally be a guy too; whatever nature). Still not the original length, the tail gave distinct positive proof. Now I'm just wondering if everyone will just say it's a different lizard and not the same ole' girl.
The Song this blog is most like – Keller Williams = Lizards
Lizard
Everything is affected by the cold and compelled by the sun. The lizard's that seem to masterfully escape the grasp of hungry Basotho are no exception. Over the past year I've come to know three that live in/near my house; two medium sized and one smaller lizard, maybe a recent addition to a family. One in particular caught my attention repeatedly because it lost its tail about six months ago.
To Basotho this 'snake' (since everything scary and foreign takes on a snake like form—note to avoid scary personal attitude for the remainder of my stay) is even more mysterious and scary. Skittishly, the adults watch this deformed creature scuttle away with a frown of disgust. The kids, with more of a curious eye but a similarly unknowing fear, watch more closely. No one understands when I try to explain how the lizards aren't snakes, firstly, and second, that the tail will grow back. The permanence of change and destruction doesn't allow for conceptual understanding of re-creation quit yet. I'm not sure what that even means when I write it!
Seriously, just today while I'm writing our lizard came out again to bath in the sun, a habit both Basotho and lizards enjoy. She came out with an inch and a half stub of a tail (I gave this lizard a feminine persona because of her glittery turquoise pink orange color that shimmers in the sun but I do yield that it could equally be a guy too; whatever nature). Still not the original length, the tail gave distinct positive proof. Now I'm just wondering if everyone will just say it's a different lizard and not the same ole' girl.
I finally made it back from Maseru today (Thursday, July 16). The bus ride was like all others. I got to the bus stop at 9:30am to get in line for the 2pm bus (gotta be sure to get a seat if I have to ride for 4+hours).
Once I put my stuff on the bus and saved a seat, I headed out through the rank and took pictures. Everybody loved posing. I did have a few people who were afraid because there are some who still think the camera can steal your soul. I've got no way of arguing otherwise so I didn't debate that one.
Back on the bus, my neighbor was an older guy from a village half way between Semonkong and Maseru. Older guys are always interesting and humorous because of the older traditions and thoughts mixed with my modern/foreign perspectives. A bit out of no where, he offered me two cows to marry one of his daughters. I told him that was very generous and asked if he could throw in a third one jokingly. He replied positively but asked if I didn't mind a female. “Cow?” I joked but he didn't pay any attention to my non-businesslike attitude.
Realizing he was partially not kidding I tried to get out of this conversation by asking how many sheep this should include to which he wanted me to throw out a number. Um. . . did we start talking lebola already?! (Lebola is the bride price—fanciness for bribe—to be paid to the family of the bride but I guess that switches when you are trying to buy a foreigner!) I told the guy I would need a hundred sheep on top of the three cows to which he scoffed. Don't ask if you don't want the answer and don't offer a number if you aren't prepared to agree! He didn't agree to a hundred sheep though I told him this is the only way to ensure success of the family! I still felt like I could joke at this point and he finally lightened up. The conversation naturally died and went on to talk with others around him about such prices!
I suppose he is still considering it. I'll let you know if I will need help shipping a couple cows, some sheep, and a wife back to the States!
Once I put my stuff on the bus and saved a seat, I headed out through the rank and took pictures. Everybody loved posing. I did have a few people who were afraid because there are some who still think the camera can steal your soul. I've got no way of arguing otherwise so I didn't debate that one.
Back on the bus, my neighbor was an older guy from a village half way between Semonkong and Maseru. Older guys are always interesting and humorous because of the older traditions and thoughts mixed with my modern/foreign perspectives. A bit out of no where, he offered me two cows to marry one of his daughters. I told him that was very generous and asked if he could throw in a third one jokingly. He replied positively but asked if I didn't mind a female. “Cow?” I joked but he didn't pay any attention to my non-businesslike attitude.
Realizing he was partially not kidding I tried to get out of this conversation by asking how many sheep this should include to which he wanted me to throw out a number. Um. . . did we start talking lebola already?! (Lebola is the bride price—fanciness for bribe—to be paid to the family of the bride but I guess that switches when you are trying to buy a foreigner!) I told the guy I would need a hundred sheep on top of the three cows to which he scoffed. Don't ask if you don't want the answer and don't offer a number if you aren't prepared to agree! He didn't agree to a hundred sheep though I told him this is the only way to ensure success of the family! I still felt like I could joke at this point and he finally lightened up. The conversation naturally died and went on to talk with others around him about such prices!
I suppose he is still considering it. I'll let you know if I will need help shipping a couple cows, some sheep, and a wife back to the States!
The Dentist.
I went to the dentist today and I've never known a dentist to be so excited about the work someone has had on their teeth. This guy really must love teeth and his job. Dr. Telejane is the dentist and his assistant is Me' Masoliso who has worked with the Dr. for 23 years; almost as long as I've been alive. This last bit of information I kept to myself, of course! In the beginning I mistook her to be my dentist (Dr. is one of those androgynous titles). She was flattered but corrected me and asked me to sit and wait for the doctor.
In no time at all the doctor arrived. A short man, about my height or shorter came in. He had a good size weight on him that made him seem healthy but not skinny. His lighter complexion first lead me to believe he was just a light colored masotho though I was later thrown for a loop when someone mentioned they thought he was Indian. Either way, this old guy was pretty funny.
He didn't make much small talk but went straight for the jokes.
“How many sheep do you have up there in Semonkong?
Do all your wives get along?
Do you find it hard to feed all those kids you must have up there?”
This guy was out of control. All these questions were interspersed among actual medical questions.
“Are you having any problems, sensitive teeth, pain, bleeding,” the usual questions, right?!
Taking his first look he was so surprised. Now if you don't know me then prepare your self for a short dental background. You've been warned, something I was not ready to relive when Dr. T ask his assistant to come over a take a look for herself.
“Me' Masoliso, come take a look! You won't see this again!”
I took them everything.
1) Since two I've had thin enamel which continues into my adulthood giving me sensitive teeth.
2) I had braces for five years.
3) I had several dental surgeries, a few which still amaze me today when I smile!
4) I still have and use my wisdom teeth. (the Museum of Natural History will be contacting me soon about their missing link to human evolution exhibit, I can feel it)
5) I'm missing two lower molars.
6) I have two extra top eye teeth.
Please, keep all your comments to yourself! I got enough teeth talk and a strong freak complex from Dr. T. Through all of this I was laying in the chair, my mouth open and my eyes scanning these two faces looking back, not at me, but my teeth. Dr. T started to explain something about how 'normal' people have 32 teeth that come in but the wisdom teeth usually come out. I, however, have 30 teeth that all fit. Then he tried to wrap that all into some thought about evolution. Twice I tried to follow what he was saying but failed to capture what he meant exactly. Anyway, the rest of the time he spent cleaning my teeth and talking about all this with his assistant like I wasn't there. At least he didn't insist on talking to me with all that stuff in my mouth.
As he finished up my chart I noticed that he was the first Masotho I ever noticed who was left handed. I joked with him how there are some cultures were people can't be left handed because it's disrespectful; that's your dirty hand, I told him. I don't think anyone has ever laughed so much as he did; joshing with me and calling Me' back over to join in the joking. I like to think I have contributed to the next person's dental experience from that last little exchange!
PS: Thank you Mom and Dad! Yes, there are people out there who can admire all the time and money put in these pearly whites! Love you!
In no time at all the doctor arrived. A short man, about my height or shorter came in. He had a good size weight on him that made him seem healthy but not skinny. His lighter complexion first lead me to believe he was just a light colored masotho though I was later thrown for a loop when someone mentioned they thought he was Indian. Either way, this old guy was pretty funny.
He didn't make much small talk but went straight for the jokes.
“How many sheep do you have up there in Semonkong?
Do all your wives get along?
Do you find it hard to feed all those kids you must have up there?”
This guy was out of control. All these questions were interspersed among actual medical questions.
“Are you having any problems, sensitive teeth, pain, bleeding,” the usual questions, right?!
Taking his first look he was so surprised. Now if you don't know me then prepare your self for a short dental background. You've been warned, something I was not ready to relive when Dr. T ask his assistant to come over a take a look for herself.
“Me' Masoliso, come take a look! You won't see this again!”
I took them everything.
1) Since two I've had thin enamel which continues into my adulthood giving me sensitive teeth.
2) I had braces for five years.
3) I had several dental surgeries, a few which still amaze me today when I smile!
4) I still have and use my wisdom teeth. (the Museum of Natural History will be contacting me soon about their missing link to human evolution exhibit, I can feel it)
5) I'm missing two lower molars.
6) I have two extra top eye teeth.
Please, keep all your comments to yourself! I got enough teeth talk and a strong freak complex from Dr. T. Through all of this I was laying in the chair, my mouth open and my eyes scanning these two faces looking back, not at me, but my teeth. Dr. T started to explain something about how 'normal' people have 32 teeth that come in but the wisdom teeth usually come out. I, however, have 30 teeth that all fit. Then he tried to wrap that all into some thought about evolution. Twice I tried to follow what he was saying but failed to capture what he meant exactly. Anyway, the rest of the time he spent cleaning my teeth and talking about all this with his assistant like I wasn't there. At least he didn't insist on talking to me with all that stuff in my mouth.
As he finished up my chart I noticed that he was the first Masotho I ever noticed who was left handed. I joked with him how there are some cultures were people can't be left handed because it's disrespectful; that's your dirty hand, I told him. I don't think anyone has ever laughed so much as he did; joshing with me and calling Me' back over to join in the joking. I like to think I have contributed to the next person's dental experience from that last little exchange!
PS: Thank you Mom and Dad! Yes, there are people out there who can admire all the time and money put in these pearly whites! Love you!
A Snow Storm: African Style.
It may become necessary for Ntate Moroosi and I never to work together again when the weather is looking bad. After yesterday (Thursday, July 23) he make it so. The reason we are looking at this like it is a trend is from the first time we were caught in a lightning storm in Ha Moahloli village. This was almost a year ago now and I'm sure I wrote about it on the ole' page already. That wasn't terribly safe hauling ourselves off the mountain and we could see the storm coming.
Yesterday we were out in Polatang village taking measurements of potato production. This was going to be the end of the measurements this week if we could have gotten it in. The day before watched the clouds roll in and the wind picked up, a clear sign that we would get weather. When I woke up yesterday morning the wind had shifted now coming out of the east. Jona, the lodge owner and local weather vein once said that when the wind shifts to an easterly origin the chill gets deeper with the arctic threat of snow. Every time I feel the winds out of that direction its definitely another 10-15 degrees colder. Everyone makes note of that when they see you too!
I dressed extra warm but didn't think we would get any precipitation until that evening with the way the sky looked open and the clouds scattered. My weather predicting abilities are about as bad as my ability to play basketball; mostly inconsistent and dependent on chance. Well just like before when Moroosi and I were caught by a speeding lightning storm this time were caught off guard. The winds were picking up by mid afternoon. All the other farmers were getting chattier as the clouds thickened and the sun took a hiatus. No sooner than 2pm those clouds from the east started dropping flurries. We could watch as the more easterly clouds began to drop the snow whiting out the mountains. Moroosi convinced everyone to pack up and get out of the weather. Everyone didn't need much convincing though since the winds sent the flurries of snow horizontal like pellets into our faces. This was also, unfortunately, the direction we all needed to get back to the village and back to town.
Now, I'm not new to seeing snow. In fact I enjoy the stuff. There's something clean and fresh about how it covers everything taking what was your typical view of the world and disguising that environment. A horizontal blowing snow storm in a treeless, monument-less environment, however, leaves one with little guidance.
We (Ntate Moroosi, four of the Bo-Me, and myself) started back toward the villages when not 100 yards from where we were Ntate Moroosi asks if I know where I'm going. I looked back at him and I could see this 70 year old man—his 10 kg rice Tastic bag he carries like a briefcase, two jackets, two sweaters, and a stocking cap on—covered in snow and still more flurries caking the front of him as the wind blew more. I wasn't much better with snow all down my front. He asked me if I knew where I was going because he felt the women were getting lost. These are women who have lived in this village for years. They had walked back and forth to these fields at least a dozen times each year for 30 plus years. And they are lost. That is how much of a mess it was turning into.
All the usual landmarks were gone. Less than one hundred yards was all we could see if anyone would brave the stinging snow flurries pelleting our faces as we looked for something that would guide our way. I thought he was joking and that everyone was fine. I still knew where I was at and where we were going (roughly south east) but I didn't realize others really were not sure. Trying to calm people down I made a few jokes that didn't work to distract people from their hysteria. Finally the women started to know where they were headed. Moroosi and I parted ways with the women; they left for the village and we headed around the ridge to town.
The weather was still going hard. Now both Moroosi and I were well covered with snow. There were a few people headed out of town back to their own villages. Because Moroosi was still extremely worried about being lost he kept asking these people if we were headed in the right direction. Using a colic, guttural growl for a voice he called out to these people for guidance.
Seeing Moroosi's reaction made me wonder if I under reacted! It was hard to figure where we were going, I must admit. EVERYTHING disappeared; the walking paths were all covered, the mountains either all looked the same or couldn't be seen, the village actually faded into a few indistinguishably spiked thatch houses, and it all looked so similar. Moroosi was completely disoriented until we finally reached the “main road” to the village—a wider dirt path for the pull carts to travel to and from town.
No sooner than we reached the junction of the main road then the skies started to clear and the sun peaked through; an welcomed annoying sight! I don't know what's next but maybe I will just call in sick the next time I have an inkling suspicion about bad weather!
Yesterday we were out in Polatang village taking measurements of potato production. This was going to be the end of the measurements this week if we could have gotten it in. The day before watched the clouds roll in and the wind picked up, a clear sign that we would get weather. When I woke up yesterday morning the wind had shifted now coming out of the east. Jona, the lodge owner and local weather vein once said that when the wind shifts to an easterly origin the chill gets deeper with the arctic threat of snow. Every time I feel the winds out of that direction its definitely another 10-15 degrees colder. Everyone makes note of that when they see you too!
I dressed extra warm but didn't think we would get any precipitation until that evening with the way the sky looked open and the clouds scattered. My weather predicting abilities are about as bad as my ability to play basketball; mostly inconsistent and dependent on chance. Well just like before when Moroosi and I were caught by a speeding lightning storm this time were caught off guard. The winds were picking up by mid afternoon. All the other farmers were getting chattier as the clouds thickened and the sun took a hiatus. No sooner than 2pm those clouds from the east started dropping flurries. We could watch as the more easterly clouds began to drop the snow whiting out the mountains. Moroosi convinced everyone to pack up and get out of the weather. Everyone didn't need much convincing though since the winds sent the flurries of snow horizontal like pellets into our faces. This was also, unfortunately, the direction we all needed to get back to the village and back to town.
Now, I'm not new to seeing snow. In fact I enjoy the stuff. There's something clean and fresh about how it covers everything taking what was your typical view of the world and disguising that environment. A horizontal blowing snow storm in a treeless, monument-less environment, however, leaves one with little guidance.
We (Ntate Moroosi, four of the Bo-Me, and myself) started back toward the villages when not 100 yards from where we were Ntate Moroosi asks if I know where I'm going. I looked back at him and I could see this 70 year old man—his 10 kg rice Tastic bag he carries like a briefcase, two jackets, two sweaters, and a stocking cap on—covered in snow and still more flurries caking the front of him as the wind blew more. I wasn't much better with snow all down my front. He asked me if I knew where I was going because he felt the women were getting lost. These are women who have lived in this village for years. They had walked back and forth to these fields at least a dozen times each year for 30 plus years. And they are lost. That is how much of a mess it was turning into.
All the usual landmarks were gone. Less than one hundred yards was all we could see if anyone would brave the stinging snow flurries pelleting our faces as we looked for something that would guide our way. I thought he was joking and that everyone was fine. I still knew where I was at and where we were going (roughly south east) but I didn't realize others really were not sure. Trying to calm people down I made a few jokes that didn't work to distract people from their hysteria. Finally the women started to know where they were headed. Moroosi and I parted ways with the women; they left for the village and we headed around the ridge to town.
The weather was still going hard. Now both Moroosi and I were well covered with snow. There were a few people headed out of town back to their own villages. Because Moroosi was still extremely worried about being lost he kept asking these people if we were headed in the right direction. Using a colic, guttural growl for a voice he called out to these people for guidance.
Seeing Moroosi's reaction made me wonder if I under reacted! It was hard to figure where we were going, I must admit. EVERYTHING disappeared; the walking paths were all covered, the mountains either all looked the same or couldn't be seen, the village actually faded into a few indistinguishably spiked thatch houses, and it all looked so similar. Moroosi was completely disoriented until we finally reached the “main road” to the village—a wider dirt path for the pull carts to travel to and from town.
No sooner than we reached the junction of the main road then the skies started to clear and the sun peaked through; an welcomed annoying sight! I don't know what's next but maybe I will just call in sick the next time I have an inkling suspicion about bad weather!
Notable Conversations.
Conversations over slaughtered cow are usually notable. It’s a bold statement, I know, and though I risk being too general, I feel I should error on this side. My conversation of note was after returning to Semonkong. My tour around town started with the farm staff for the Mission. They all live just behind my place. These are the guys who get me to milk cows, who I play football (soccer) with during the summer, and who most often make fun of me when they see me acting outrageous—this means when I act typically Foreign (more on that later).
This day I noticed the whole group of guys hangin’ out back so I headed back to say hi and check on them. Everybody was standing around a cow on its back being skinned. Since moving to Lesotho I have been desensitized to the slaughter of animals. The sight doesn’t bother me though the smells can still give me a twinge of regret for coming closer. I came by just to say hi and ended up staying for a bit just because of the randomness of their conversation. It ran from talk about the cow being fat (the skin was thick and soft they all noted and felt—even I had to try it out). We all talked about our favorite way to cook beef which means I talked about the different parts of the cow having different textures and they all thinking I was telling them a story. To continue story time I was asked where we get meat in the States to which I described the commercial structure of a supermarket.
A younger guy whose been working there a while and I’ve come to know, asked me to continue to explain the way guys get a girl in the US. It was only later that I was able to reflect on how humorous that was to explain to a group of farmers this far out and how random that we did it over a dead cow. I’m pretty sure this tops my explanation of how satellites work with a farmer in the middle of no where, Semonkong.
I’ve determined for fact that Peace Corps volunteers live their job every moment of every day they are in service. If it wasn’t for the randomness of these numerous conversations that occur, I wouldn’t be able to count the times I have had a chance to share with someone an aspect of my own world in the US
This day I noticed the whole group of guys hangin’ out back so I headed back to say hi and check on them. Everybody was standing around a cow on its back being skinned. Since moving to Lesotho I have been desensitized to the slaughter of animals. The sight doesn’t bother me though the smells can still give me a twinge of regret for coming closer. I came by just to say hi and ended up staying for a bit just because of the randomness of their conversation. It ran from talk about the cow being fat (the skin was thick and soft they all noted and felt—even I had to try it out). We all talked about our favorite way to cook beef which means I talked about the different parts of the cow having different textures and they all thinking I was telling them a story. To continue story time I was asked where we get meat in the States to which I described the commercial structure of a supermarket.
A younger guy whose been working there a while and I’ve come to know, asked me to continue to explain the way guys get a girl in the US. It was only later that I was able to reflect on how humorous that was to explain to a group of farmers this far out and how random that we did it over a dead cow. I’m pretty sure this tops my explanation of how satellites work with a farmer in the middle of no where, Semonkong.
I’ve determined for fact that Peace Corps volunteers live their job every moment of every day they are in service. If it wasn’t for the randomness of these numerous conversations that occur, I wouldn’t be able to count the times I have had a chance to share with someone an aspect of my own world in the US
No one from my organization is in Semonkong right now. I’ll fill everyone in on the news with that eventually. Instead of worrying I spent yesterday greeting everyone again. More or less I wanted to make sure they didn’t think I left/was dead. You know how rumors can circulate in a small town especially when it’s cold and you have nothing else to talk about!! It was great to see everyone again. By the third person I met I had a routine pattern of statements well practiced in Sesotho and ready to respond to anything.
That was yesterday. Today I went to the post office to check the mail but the post man wasn’t going to show until after lunch. (Lunch is from 1-2 and they close at 3:30!!). Whatever. Since I had time I stopped by and chased some kids. They are a trip and think I must be insane as I come after them. I also hung out with the priest’s handyman. He was fixing a wheelbarrow and he didn’t seem to mind the audience. I think he actually loved the observation of his personal handiness. Finally, before I reached home I sat with Me’Malineo and chatted about the weather, about the chickens, and I explained how a wooden door could swell because of water. I avoided the obvious difficulties of the science behind it and described it more like a sponge.
That was yesterday. Today I went to the post office to check the mail but the post man wasn’t going to show until after lunch. (Lunch is from 1-2 and they close at 3:30!!). Whatever. Since I had time I stopped by and chased some kids. They are a trip and think I must be insane as I come after them. I also hung out with the priest’s handyman. He was fixing a wheelbarrow and he didn’t seem to mind the audience. I think he actually loved the observation of his personal handiness. Finally, before I reached home I sat with Me’Malineo and chatted about the weather, about the chickens, and I explained how a wooden door could swell because of water. I avoided the obvious difficulties of the science behind it and described it more like a sponge.
I finally made it back up to Semonkong on Tuesday, June 30th. It’s been a solid month since I’ve been back and I have to say it is nice to be back. The weather has taken a turn for the fridgid. I woke the next day to a temperature of 23ºF outside and 34ºF inside. Of course I already knew it was cold before I looked at the thermometer since it was hidden behind a sheet of frost (on the inside window).
My gardens have been decimated by the local wildlife. Cows and sheep have left evidence enough to know I’m gonna have to buy my carrots, cabbage, and spinach again this year. With my make shift plastic sheet I’ll be getting another grow box ready for August. This is all after living in a Maseru for another week (+) to help out with training; plenty of time to plan. . . something.
The greatest surprise of them all was that the generator that broke just as I arrived last year is finally fixed. With it we (the town) have electricity from about 7/8 am till about 10 pm every day. It doesn’t make the cold go away but it sure does distract me enough so I can pretend!!
Enjoy the summer weather USA, your time
My gardens have been decimated by the local wildlife. Cows and sheep have left evidence enough to know I’m gonna have to buy my carrots, cabbage, and spinach again this year. With my make shift plastic sheet I’ll be getting another grow box ready for August. This is all after living in a Maseru for another week (+) to help out with training; plenty of time to plan. . . something.
The greatest surprise of them all was that the generator that broke just as I arrived last year is finally fixed. With it we (the town) have electricity from about 7/8 am till about 10 pm every day. It doesn’t make the cold go away but it sure does distract me enough so I can pretend!!
Enjoy the summer weather USA, your time
Jo'Burg travels.
In a blog I wrote after arriving in Jo'burg international airport I described my trip thus and thought I should publish it though it's a bit out of order::
In blunt defiance of dad's emphatic wish, I've come to Johannesburg for my flight home. His willingness to fly me out of Bloem or even Maseru was nice. The truth is, however, that I would rather challenge myself than just take the easy route. Honestly, I wanted to see what Jo'burg was like, how easy is was to get in and around, and know how of what I hear about Jo'burg is true.
I think that is part of my self determined to seeking of the truth in everything. I'm more stubborn in that sense than in any other. Yes, if I had seen a fire a child and was told not to touch it, I would probably still seek that first burn. Guaranteed it would be only once deliberately done.
Admittedly, the nerves were pressed thinking about a trip to Jo'burg. They are still a bit keen knowing I have a trip back to Lesotho coming my way very soon. Anxiety in my eyes seems fruitless and demeaning. The unwarranted attack I subject myself is personal slavery of which escape is one's own responsibility.
In truth, the taxi from Lesotho's boarder to Jo'burg provided the best security. Conversations with the other people riding to Jo'burg were the best way to find good people. They in-turn directed me on the right path. I can't reasonably presume why, particularly one person felt so inclined to help, but it was greatly appreciated.
**
Immediately as the taxi pulled into the fenced off rank, people began to approach like ball-bearings pulled toward a magnet. Their aggressiveness is always daunting but expected. There are always people waiting for the white guy in an all black area. I get strange looks from blacks and other whites alike who wonder what this particular guy is thinking.
The whites generally picture a risk taker who isn't thinking right putting himself in harms way. The isolation of their vehicles which they park behind tall fences at home, a place with burglar bars and double locks, all in my mind escalates a sense of insecurity. Thinking all people are out to get you except your friends, and even they've thought about it, is a fear factor.
I often picture the large black woman who once sat beside me on the Greyhound bus to Oklahoma when I think about how other black people may see me here. She sat down beside me, her size more than double mine. She was also surely a good foot taller than me. Leaning over my way, she looked at me with a frank but kind smile and direct precise tone, “And where's a little white boy like yourself going?”
At any rate, this kind and large woman was not there today as people approached the car. Most surely thought I was an excellent target, a prime fool because no one with any sense would come through the rank. At one point I did wonder where I might go. The taxi driver previously promised his help in finding a ride out to the airport. His help amounted to a pointing out the door. In the end, my car buddy was the most help. After he noticed how aggressive everybody was to “help” me, he rushed in and lead me the right direction.
There were several other people that provided their support along with his that day. They are all greatly appreciated after seeing the way people swooned. And I didn't even have to break out my ninja skills! Now for the easy part, heading back to the US.
In blunt defiance of dad's emphatic wish, I've come to Johannesburg for my flight home. His willingness to fly me out of Bloem or even Maseru was nice. The truth is, however, that I would rather challenge myself than just take the easy route. Honestly, I wanted to see what Jo'burg was like, how easy is was to get in and around, and know how of what I hear about Jo'burg is true.
I think that is part of my self determined to seeking of the truth in everything. I'm more stubborn in that sense than in any other. Yes, if I had seen a fire a child and was told not to touch it, I would probably still seek that first burn. Guaranteed it would be only once deliberately done.
Admittedly, the nerves were pressed thinking about a trip to Jo'burg. They are still a bit keen knowing I have a trip back to Lesotho coming my way very soon. Anxiety in my eyes seems fruitless and demeaning. The unwarranted attack I subject myself is personal slavery of which escape is one's own responsibility.
In truth, the taxi from Lesotho's boarder to Jo'burg provided the best security. Conversations with the other people riding to Jo'burg were the best way to find good people. They in-turn directed me on the right path. I can't reasonably presume why, particularly one person felt so inclined to help, but it was greatly appreciated.
**
Immediately as the taxi pulled into the fenced off rank, people began to approach like ball-bearings pulled toward a magnet. Their aggressiveness is always daunting but expected. There are always people waiting for the white guy in an all black area. I get strange looks from blacks and other whites alike who wonder what this particular guy is thinking.
The whites generally picture a risk taker who isn't thinking right putting himself in harms way. The isolation of their vehicles which they park behind tall fences at home, a place with burglar bars and double locks, all in my mind escalates a sense of insecurity. Thinking all people are out to get you except your friends, and even they've thought about it, is a fear factor.
I often picture the large black woman who once sat beside me on the Greyhound bus to Oklahoma when I think about how other black people may see me here. She sat down beside me, her size more than double mine. She was also surely a good foot taller than me. Leaning over my way, she looked at me with a frank but kind smile and direct precise tone, “And where's a little white boy like yourself going?”
At any rate, this kind and large woman was not there today as people approached the car. Most surely thought I was an excellent target, a prime fool because no one with any sense would come through the rank. At one point I did wonder where I might go. The taxi driver previously promised his help in finding a ride out to the airport. His help amounted to a pointing out the door. In the end, my car buddy was the most help. After he noticed how aggressive everybody was to “help” me, he rushed in and lead me the right direction.
There were several other people that provided their support along with his that day. They are all greatly appreciated after seeing the way people swooned. And I didn't even have to break out my ninja skills! Now for the easy part, heading back to the US.
The Ineffectual Woman: what to do with a life.
There's a woman I know who wants more than anything to change the world. Should I say first that she want's to take Atlas's place as the bearer of pain. The panacea of all earth's troubles has come down to Peace Corps service and the outreach to children. The sad fate of the world's disadvantaged youth growing up in the developing countries compels her. Nothing is too heavy and no child is not innocent. Her joy as the bearer of this quest is, however, her greatest source of pain. The pressure draws from her a piece of herself which this world can not return in favor. Terror's eat at her soul to know that one innocent child can only be saved from a single moments troubles. Even the thoughts of a ripple throughout that single child's life is not enough to prompt a calmer heart. She is paralyzed by these fears of ineffectiveness. This multiplying effect where witnessing a single bad incident feeds increasing doubt infects the value of all deeds no matter what their potential positive effects.
To me, this isn't a question of development. There are just those people in the world that are going to do terrible things. Even when the authorities try to react to them or social structures are created in hopes of preempting tragedy and terror before it starts, I can't foresee an end to the possible awfulness people are capable of with each other.
Thinking about this volunteer I can only hope, for her sake, that she finds some way to cope with what will otherwise consume her. Listening to her thoughts and anger toward Basotho who beat their children I can't help but notice my own feelings. It's strange how almost cold I feel about such an awful thing. I've similarly thought how callous I feel toward beggars. My skill at turning people away has become so good; I can see it in their eyes, I can notice someone preparing to ask me for something even before we get within speaking distance. To this end I can't give this particular volunteer any advice. For me, I have shut my self down to situations that I can't control.
I hope I haven't become too much of a realist loosing my optimistic idealism. Instead, I'd like to think I have gained an informed perspective; rather a perspective that is always learning from the ever changing possibility that people achieve in their own lives.
To me, this isn't a question of development. There are just those people in the world that are going to do terrible things. Even when the authorities try to react to them or social structures are created in hopes of preempting tragedy and terror before it starts, I can't foresee an end to the possible awfulness people are capable of with each other.
Thinking about this volunteer I can only hope, for her sake, that she finds some way to cope with what will otherwise consume her. Listening to her thoughts and anger toward Basotho who beat their children I can't help but notice my own feelings. It's strange how almost cold I feel about such an awful thing. I've similarly thought how callous I feel toward beggars. My skill at turning people away has become so good; I can see it in their eyes, I can notice someone preparing to ask me for something even before we get within speaking distance. To this end I can't give this particular volunteer any advice. For me, I have shut my self down to situations that I can't control.
I hope I haven't become too much of a realist loosing my optimistic idealism. Instead, I'd like to think I have gained an informed perspective; rather a perspective that is always learning from the ever changing possibility that people achieve in their own lives.
I got the flu shot today after hearing people who had it then acquired the swine flu were suffering less severe symptoms. That would be grand, especially if I got anything while I was in the States.
I'm glad I was listening when she was talking. Other than her happened upon advice, I have really been struggling to pay attention during our TOT (Training of Trainers) sessions. My mind has been in so many other places as I plan to leave, work on developing agriculture training sessions, and keep my other responsibilities in mind. It's a juggling act I'd like to forget about while on the beaches of Florida!
I'm glad I was listening when she was talking. Other than her happened upon advice, I have really been struggling to pay attention during our TOT (Training of Trainers) sessions. My mind has been in so many other places as I plan to leave, work on developing agriculture training sessions, and keep my other responsibilities in mind. It's a juggling act I'd like to forget about while on the beaches of Florida!
Good Luck Kelly!!
I'm sitting in the Training Center lounge area watching as Kelly suffers to finish a book. She has been reading The Other Anne Boline Girl for something like two months reading other books in the middle to break-up the monotony that is 500 pages. She has less than fifty pages left and the joy is mixed with exhaustion. Kelly feels impossible commitment to finishing a book once she has started. She forces herself to finish no matter how it's going. I could have told her just to watch The Tudors from Showtime but it's too late now!! Good Job Kelly!!
****We will miss you here in Lesotho but know you did what you need to do for you and your family. Take care and I'm sure we will see each other again!****
****We will miss you here in Lesotho but know you did what you need to do for you and your family. Take care and I'm sure we will see each other again!****
The Chinese and Obama.
I'm headin' home, I only have a week and a half left. All that time is going to be spent in Maseru where we are preparing for the new CHED volunteers to arrive.
I was telling the Chinese about my leaving for the US and the Chinese were telling me to bring something back for them. I joked that nothing in the US is made in the US so if they wanted Chinese made items I would get right on that. There is one crazy haired sixty-ish Chinese women in this particular shop who then said in Chinese “Bring me Obama.” She then repeated it with the emphasis of a jihad extremist making me wonder if a few Obama stickers and key chains would be enough for this woman. Hopefully she doesn't want for me to bring the man himself!
I was telling the Chinese about my leaving for the US and the Chinese were telling me to bring something back for them. I joked that nothing in the US is made in the US so if they wanted Chinese made items I would get right on that. There is one crazy haired sixty-ish Chinese women in this particular shop who then said in Chinese “Bring me Obama.” She then repeated it with the emphasis of a jihad extremist making me wonder if a few Obama stickers and key chains would be enough for this woman. Hopefully she doesn't want for me to bring the man himself!
Saturday, July 4, 2009
No one from my organization is in Semonkong right now. I’ll fill everyone in on the news with that eventually. Instead of worrying I spent yesterday greeting everyone again. More or less I wanted to make sure they didn’t think I left/was dead. You know how rumors can circulate in a small town especially when it’s cold and you have nothing else to talk about!! It was great to see everyone again. By the third person I met I had a routine pattern of statements well practiced in Sesotho and ready to respond to anything.
That was yesterday. Today I went to the post office to check the mail but the post man wasn’t going to show until after lunch. (Lunch is from 1-2 and they close at 3:30!!). Whatever. Since I had time I stopped by and chased some kids. They are a trip and think I must be insane as I come after them. I also hung out with the priest’s handyman. He was fixing a wheelbarrow and he didn’t seem to mind the audience. I think he actually loved the observation of his personal handiness. Finally, before I reached home I sat with Me’Malineo and chatted about the weather, about the chickens, and I explained how a wooden door could swell because of water. I avoided the obvious difficulties of the science behind it and described it more like a sponge.
That was yesterday. Today I went to the post office to check the mail but the post man wasn’t going to show until after lunch. (Lunch is from 1-2 and they close at 3:30!!). Whatever. Since I had time I stopped by and chased some kids. They are a trip and think I must be insane as I come after them. I also hung out with the priest’s handyman. He was fixing a wheelbarrow and he didn’t seem to mind the audience. I think he actually loved the observation of his personal handiness. Finally, before I reached home I sat with Me’Malineo and chatted about the weather, about the chickens, and I explained how a wooden door could swell because of water. I avoided the obvious difficulties of the science behind it and described it more like a sponge.
I finally made it back up to Semonkong on Tuesday, June 30th. It’s been a solid month since I’ve been back and I have to say it is nice to be back. The weather has taken a turn for the fridgid. I woke the next day to a temperature of 23ºF outside and 34ºF inside. Of course I already knew it was cold before I looked at the thermometer since it was hidden behind a sheet of frost (on the inside window).
My gardens have been decimated by the local wildlife. Cows and sheep have left evidence enough to know I’m gonna have to buy my carrots, cabbage, and spinach again this year. With my make shift plastic sheet I’ll be getting another grow box ready for August. This is all after living in a Maseru for another week (+) to help out with training; plenty of time to plan. . . something.
The greatest surprise of them all was that the generator that broke just as I arrived last year is finally fixed. With it we (the town) have electricity from about 7/8 am till about 10 pm every day. It doesn’t make the cold go away but it sure does distract me enough so I can pretend!!
Enjoy the summer weather USA, your time is coming!!
My gardens have been decimated by the local wildlife. Cows and sheep have left evidence enough to know I’m gonna have to buy my carrots, cabbage, and spinach again this year. With my make shift plastic sheet I’ll be getting another grow box ready for August. This is all after living in a Maseru for another week (+) to help out with training; plenty of time to plan. . . something.
The greatest surprise of them all was that the generator that broke just as I arrived last year is finally fixed. With it we (the town) have electricity from about 7/8 am till about 10 pm every day. It doesn’t make the cold go away but it sure does distract me enough so I can pretend!!
Enjoy the summer weather USA, your time is coming!!
I must live in the coldest town in Africa. If someone could get on that research and let me know if I’m right, I would greatly appreciate it though right now the thought isn’t comforting in the least.
It snowed last week for the first time leaving a nice blanket over everything, including the road. That made for a mess with transportation. For a while no one was going anywhere.
I managed to get a ride with the lodge vehicle as it headed back up from a re-stocking trip. That drive re-instilled a love for Lesotho that might have otherwise gone astray. The mountains were a beautiful white, the ledges had sheets of ice and ice sickles hanging from them and they danced with the beautiful colors of the setting sun. This can’t sound dramatic enough. The sky’s colors morphed from the solid blues of the short day to shades of orange, reds, and pinks melding together; this was something a picture or a painting could never recreate.
Just up on Thaba Putsoa, the highest peak you pass as you head to Semonkong, gave the greatest viewpoint for the sky as it met the earth. Touching just below the horizon the whole sky blew up into all shades of reds emanating from that one point and fading away toward our destination.
It snowed last week for the first time leaving a nice blanket over everything, including the road. That made for a mess with transportation. For a while no one was going anywhere.
I managed to get a ride with the lodge vehicle as it headed back up from a re-stocking trip. That drive re-instilled a love for Lesotho that might have otherwise gone astray. The mountains were a beautiful white, the ledges had sheets of ice and ice sickles hanging from them and they danced with the beautiful colors of the setting sun. This can’t sound dramatic enough. The sky’s colors morphed from the solid blues of the short day to shades of orange, reds, and pinks melding together; this was something a picture or a painting could never recreate.
Just up on Thaba Putsoa, the highest peak you pass as you head to Semonkong, gave the greatest viewpoint for the sky as it met the earth. Touching just below the horizon the whole sky blew up into all shades of reds emanating from that one point and fading away toward our destination.
Reverse Culture-Shock: the feeling of being alienated by your own home; feeling out of place. There are some pretty stark differences between my life in Lesotho and my life in the US. They are alternate realities that only happen to share the same plain in the universe. Just the other day I was looking at my pictures of Semonkong and laughed at home strangely familiar steel corrugated shacks were. Similarly, the horses’ hitching posts and a picture of hundreds of sheep drew bittersweet memories.
As I sit here at the corner of 7th and H streets in Washington, DC, however, I’m being distracted by a man dancing in the street. If his singing and twirling style of dance didn’t draw people’s attention then maybe the fact that he was doing it in the middle of the intersection as he directed traffic should have helped. Of course tragically my eyes were also witness to vintage seventies booty shorts and cut-off shirt.
This man was definitely different but he brought fond thoughts of crazy witch lady living on the streets of Semonkong. Her skin orange and eyes yellowing because of the amount of alcohol she drinks instead of food, she carries her friends on her shoulder and has lengthy—and incoherent—conversations with them. She has called me white money on good days and white donkey the bad. Though I’m not in the same place when I meet these people I feel a comforting familiarity.
These special characters in my life are contrastingly supportive to the ‘overwhelmed’ feeling I’ve experienced since being home. Several times I’ve had to take a moment to collect my senses. I would pause to take a deep breath and catch up with all the excitement. It might seem silly to make a big deal about after spending a year watching sheep grazy, hanging out in a podunk town, and cheersing with real village people in mud/dung thatched huts makes the hustle and bustle something foreign.
Sitting down in a restaurant with all the sights and sounds of people’s busy feeding frenzy or the carnival atmosphere of Disney world shook me up. It was the muddled modern world with its innumerable sensual exploits that drove me so crazy.
As I sit here at the corner of 7th and H streets in Washington, DC, however, I’m being distracted by a man dancing in the street. If his singing and twirling style of dance didn’t draw people’s attention then maybe the fact that he was doing it in the middle of the intersection as he directed traffic should have helped. Of course tragically my eyes were also witness to vintage seventies booty shorts and cut-off shirt.
This man was definitely different but he brought fond thoughts of crazy witch lady living on the streets of Semonkong. Her skin orange and eyes yellowing because of the amount of alcohol she drinks instead of food, she carries her friends on her shoulder and has lengthy—and incoherent—conversations with them. She has called me white money on good days and white donkey the bad. Though I’m not in the same place when I meet these people I feel a comforting familiarity.
These special characters in my life are contrastingly supportive to the ‘overwhelmed’ feeling I’ve experienced since being home. Several times I’ve had to take a moment to collect my senses. I would pause to take a deep breath and catch up with all the excitement. It might seem silly to make a big deal about after spending a year watching sheep grazy, hanging out in a podunk town, and cheersing with real village people in mud/dung thatched huts makes the hustle and bustle something foreign.
Sitting down in a restaurant with all the sights and sounds of people’s busy feeding frenzy or the carnival atmosphere of Disney world shook me up. It was the muddled modern world with its innumerable sensual exploits that drove me so crazy.
Coming back to the US humorously exciting because of the imagined change I would see. Obama is president. Before I left the US was in a headed debate over who to elect. A full year later after the decision has been made, nothing has really changed. More than anything else the debris from an obsessive population still remains.
Obamamania produced huge amounts of memorabilia. There are stores filled with the stuff and in one, The Official DC Souvenir shop there was more than 90% dedicated to Obama materials. As I walked through the store a feeling reminded me of a quote someone gave me once here in Africa. In talking generally about politics in Africa this person criticized Africans for their obsessive hero worship for their politicians. More often than not, populations will idealize the people that lead them rather than something else like an political document or ideology. I kept that thought in my mind but only after a few a little while did it start to make sense on so many levels.
Watching how much Americans have abandoned some sense of reverence for American ideals, it seems people have replaced their hope of future successes of this country with the hopes of a hero, someone to make all things right rather than that which we can work on together. Then again, maybe this is the un-insightful view of someone still unsure what’s next for my country.
Obamamania produced huge amounts of memorabilia. There are stores filled with the stuff and in one, The Official DC Souvenir shop there was more than 90% dedicated to Obama materials. As I walked through the store a feeling reminded me of a quote someone gave me once here in Africa. In talking generally about politics in Africa this person criticized Africans for their obsessive hero worship for their politicians. More often than not, populations will idealize the people that lead them rather than something else like an political document or ideology. I kept that thought in my mind but only after a few a little while did it start to make sense on so many levels.
Watching how much Americans have abandoned some sense of reverence for American ideals, it seems people have replaced their hope of future successes of this country with the hopes of a hero, someone to make all things right rather than that which we can work on together. Then again, maybe this is the un-insightful view of someone still unsure what’s next for my country.
The plan was to head home in late May, spend four weeks in the states and then head back to Lesotho the third week in June. It has worked out very well and the trip has been amazing.
Not being too prideful, I will admit the nerves were high as I was taking the bus up to Jo’burg. A mix of excitement and insecurity was exhilarating. Who’s the adrenaline junky?! Getting here was great. I stayed in DC for a few days and hung out with good people. I went to a Washington Nationals baseball game and to the bars for some draft beers. My first real meal was a sub from subway. I loved every bit of that foot long!
Unfortunately, coming back to the US can be hazardous to your health. Almost instantly after getting off the plane I started to feel ‘rough’ with a vicious cough and some nose clogging action. Swine flu is not the cool thing to be doing. I learned the hard way! Whatever flu I did have rocked me good for a couple days before I was able to kick it. Allergies were also pretty fierce this year. Living in Africa has clearly made me soft!
Not being too prideful, I will admit the nerves were high as I was taking the bus up to Jo’burg. A mix of excitement and insecurity was exhilarating. Who’s the adrenaline junky?! Getting here was great. I stayed in DC for a few days and hung out with good people. I went to a Washington Nationals baseball game and to the bars for some draft beers. My first real meal was a sub from subway. I loved every bit of that foot long!
Unfortunately, coming back to the US can be hazardous to your health. Almost instantly after getting off the plane I started to feel ‘rough’ with a vicious cough and some nose clogging action. Swine flu is not the cool thing to be doing. I learned the hard way! Whatever flu I did have rocked me good for a couple days before I was able to kick it. Allergies were also pretty fierce this year. Living in Africa has clearly made me soft!
Monday, June 15, 2009
The lack of any new posts on my blog the past three weeks has been for a really good reason. I headed back to the US for a month after my brother Matt was able to get his two week leave from the Army out in Afghanistan.
It has been tough to keep it all hush but surprising Matt at his girlfriend’s house in Orlando was very much worth the silence. Working on my parents to convince them that a surprise isn’t the older brother being mean was a trial but since Ashley was so excited about doing it with me, it made it easier to sneak it on him.
Ashley was awesome helping to make this a real surprise. Before he came home she was telling him how much it would be great if I could come home. Once he was home she really laid it on thick those few days before my parents and I flew in to Orlando. They would be shopping and she would off-handedly say how great it would be if I was there. He was completely caught off guard when I came through the door of her place!
At first we were going to surprise him at the airport. Mom and Dad would have gone in first then I would sneak up on him later. A desquise was mentioned as a possible option. The thought of security chasing after a man in a fake wig through the airport was not, however, convincing enough to stick with the idea.
Instead of coming to pick us up, we rode out to Ashley’s place. They were already grilling up some good stuff for us and all we had to do was find our way there. I was coaching my parents the whole time.
They were going in first. Setting him up so his back is to the front door they would do their thing. I stayed in the car, ducked down, and waited for the excitement to wear down then I walked through the front door. Matt was really surprised and excited. He couldn’t believe who he was seeing.
The rest is history but the truth is it was pretty awesome to have the opportunity to surprise him the way we did. I wouldn’t trade the world for the good time we had this past week. It’s been great to hand out with my little brother and to see all of us together.
It has been tough to keep it all hush but surprising Matt at his girlfriend’s house in Orlando was very much worth the silence. Working on my parents to convince them that a surprise isn’t the older brother being mean was a trial but since Ashley was so excited about doing it with me, it made it easier to sneak it on him.
Ashley was awesome helping to make this a real surprise. Before he came home she was telling him how much it would be great if I could come home. Once he was home she really laid it on thick those few days before my parents and I flew in to Orlando. They would be shopping and she would off-handedly say how great it would be if I was there. He was completely caught off guard when I came through the door of her place!
At first we were going to surprise him at the airport. Mom and Dad would have gone in first then I would sneak up on him later. A desquise was mentioned as a possible option. The thought of security chasing after a man in a fake wig through the airport was not, however, convincing enough to stick with the idea.
Instead of coming to pick us up, we rode out to Ashley’s place. They were already grilling up some good stuff for us and all we had to do was find our way there. I was coaching my parents the whole time.
They were going in first. Setting him up so his back is to the front door they would do their thing. I stayed in the car, ducked down, and waited for the excitement to wear down then I walked through the front door. Matt was really surprised and excited. He couldn’t believe who he was seeing.
The rest is history but the truth is it was pretty awesome to have the opportunity to surprise him the way we did. I wouldn’t trade the world for the good time we had this past week. It’s been great to hand out with my little brother and to see all of us together.
Friday, May 8, 2009
Due in part to some seemingly poor accounting and a poor international donor relationship, KMA's network donor system as failed to supply funding this year. It has actually been a problem since late last year. Though Palesa and Nthabileng were aware of this when they first came on board with KMA, their patience and understanding is running thin. It's still longer than I would last but I must constantly check myself when we talk about the issue. I come from a country where I could find another paying job if I get dissatisfied. People leave their job all the time just because they are bored, tired, or whatever other whim flites past their mind. That luxury does not exist here.
That is why the Boss of KMA asking everybody to make a trip to Maseru next week for a staff meeting has left everyone in a bad mood. No one has any money. Palesa's child has been removed from school because she can not pay his school fees. Everybody is hurting and Ntate Moahloli is asking for them to pay R60 to get to Maseru, an expensive city on even a paid Basotho's wallet.
I'm sure glad I'm getting out of dodge for the week and away from the frustration. That and my water tap is broken. Semonkong is falling apart!!
That is why the Boss of KMA asking everybody to make a trip to Maseru next week for a staff meeting has left everyone in a bad mood. No one has any money. Palesa's child has been removed from school because she can not pay his school fees. Everybody is hurting and Ntate Moahloli is asking for them to pay R60 to get to Maseru, an expensive city on even a paid Basotho's wallet.
I'm sure glad I'm getting out of dodge for the week and away from the frustration. That and my water tap is broken. Semonkong is falling apart!!
Another stressing moment led to a nice opportunity and a good experience. On Wednesday I went to my organization's office and there learned that the next day no one would be present though I had a training planned. I would need to wait for Me' Ellen to arrive and give permission for me to have the key to the main hall. Mind you, it was eleven when I arrived at the offices; she was still at home and would not be back until after lunch. She didn't finally show until 3 but I didn't just wait around like I feared.
Two field officers from the office were headed to the wool shed this day and I asked if I might accompany them to the shed. Have never gone to the shed though I teach wool spinners, this seemed like an excellent opportunity to learn about the process while taking up some time. This thought proved truer once I arrived.
The people working at the shed were very nice and inviting. I feared making trouble out of the distraction I had become. Everybody loved that I was taking pictures. Even the manager, a very large older woman who did NOT want a picture of herself, approved of my freely walking about the shed. I can't say I learned a great deal more than I already knew though I do have a better idea how it all works. There are some pretty awesome pictures that I will have to post as soon as I get around to it.
Two field officers from the office were headed to the wool shed this day and I asked if I might accompany them to the shed. Have never gone to the shed though I teach wool spinners, this seemed like an excellent opportunity to learn about the process while taking up some time. This thought proved truer once I arrived.
The people working at the shed were very nice and inviting. I feared making trouble out of the distraction I had become. Everybody loved that I was taking pictures. Even the manager, a very large older woman who did NOT want a picture of herself, approved of my freely walking about the shed. I can't say I learned a great deal more than I already knew though I do have a better idea how it all works. There are some pretty awesome pictures that I will have to post as soon as I get around to it.
Be afraid. If you are anywhere around me when I make it home. . . eventually, I am going to make you watch the music video I just bought this week in Maseru. It's an awesome video of this almost famous performer in Lesotho. The DVD has all the classic aspects critical to a good depiction of Basotho music videos. I can't wait until I learn the outsider perspective. Confidently, I can post this knowing most of my friends aren't going to read my blog. That is in my favor when I come to visit with this DVD ready to play!!
I drew a crowd of curious onlookers in the rank while I watched and talked about the video. Two lehoa will do that though. Not sure if it was because of Ro's presence—was he judging my haggling ability or the purchase choice—either way I got a discount on the DVD selling the salesman on the idea that I will encourage others to come and buy their videos from this same store. As Ro said, “I really Jewed him.” I'm taking noted from the master Ro!
I drew a crowd of curious onlookers in the rank while I watched and talked about the video. Two lehoa will do that though. Not sure if it was because of Ro's presence—was he judging my haggling ability or the purchase choice—either way I got a discount on the DVD selling the salesman on the idea that I will encourage others to come and buy their videos from this same store. As Ro said, “I really Jewed him.” I'm taking noted from the master Ro!
Yes, it is possible to forget your own name.
Early the other morning I heard Ntate Matsitsi calling a name and I thought to myself “who is he calling and why is he at my door?” Once the fog lifted and I came back to reality the link between who “Nick” was and my self identity finally clicked.
No this was not hangover induced though I will say it was early and before a cup of coffee which explains a great deal!
Early the other morning I heard Ntate Matsitsi calling a name and I thought to myself “who is he calling and why is he at my door?” Once the fog lifted and I came back to reality the link between who “Nick” was and my self identity finally clicked.
No this was not hangover induced though I will say it was early and before a cup of coffee which explains a great deal!
I was reminded of the nicest thing I have heard since arriving in Lesotho. Most of the day today was spent outside in the gardens. The weather has taken its predicted turn for the colder. Morning temperatures this weekend were in the upper thirties. The winter plants are all vulnerable to the pending frosts that will soon start to settle at night. Unfortunately, Palesa, Nthabileng, and I have, for a while, been successful in putting off gathering grasses to use as mulch. So finally I went out today with Ntate Matsitsi and we cut a bunch of grass, talked about mulching methods, and basically enjoyed a beautiful warm day outside.
Later I came back to the mission and did the same thing in my own garden. By four I was finished, the sun was going down and the cool winds were telling me it was time to head home. As I gathered my things I looked down at my hands and was then reminded of the comment Ntate Matsitsi made to me one day. That day Matsitsi grasped my hands turned them over in observation and said, “Heh, Ntate Hlompo(me), your hands are like a farmer's. Our hands are like this because of the rough work.”
I was honored but I had to ask myself why I cared. Many people disdain these types of hands. It conjures negative thoughts of tough labor, brute force, and simplicity. Matsitsi's comment was, however, not meant to be negative at all. It was a refreshing perspective that united rather than alienated me from people in Semonkong.
A stranger in a strange land, to use a warn clichés, is just what I was as soon as I stepped foot in Semonkong. All Peace Corps Volunteers are the same. From whatever background we had in the states, we leave it all behind and start a new life. With that new life comes the tasks of building relationships, trusts, and confidence within that new community. I'll do the same thing when I head home, but there everything is much more subtle.
Matsitsi was too kind in considering me as hard a worker as any local farmer in Semonkong. These men, and women, start very early in the morning walking long distances to arrive at a field they will work in most of the day; many do this before taking their first, or only, meal which is usually later in the evening. I'm no slouch so I pull my weight but going all day without food; No Way. Even worse is Matsitsi telling me of how he would go all day without drinking any water. He would work in the fields and by the end of the day he would be “so very thirsty” he says. Nope, I couldn't work.
These farmers, laborers for their own survival, have my utmost respect. Semonkong is a harsh environment to have a farm and feed a family. The weather is cold, the warm season is short, and the soil is stressed and dry. I know this because I too am trying to grow what I can when I can.
My rough hands are a token of joy. I love growing things. Hard work is nothing to frown about and can be simply rewarding. It also takes up a great deal of time otherwise worryingly in need of filling out here. I also like being able to talk with farmers about their problems in the fields and to know what they are saying first hand because I see it for myself. Their problems aren't necessarily mine but solutions are all our responsibility. So, though Matsitsi is being very generous in his comment, there is a touch of happiness just to be grouped with these farmers for a moment.
Later I came back to the mission and did the same thing in my own garden. By four I was finished, the sun was going down and the cool winds were telling me it was time to head home. As I gathered my things I looked down at my hands and was then reminded of the comment Ntate Matsitsi made to me one day. That day Matsitsi grasped my hands turned them over in observation and said, “Heh, Ntate Hlompo(me), your hands are like a farmer's. Our hands are like this because of the rough work.”
I was honored but I had to ask myself why I cared. Many people disdain these types of hands. It conjures negative thoughts of tough labor, brute force, and simplicity. Matsitsi's comment was, however, not meant to be negative at all. It was a refreshing perspective that united rather than alienated me from people in Semonkong.
A stranger in a strange land, to use a warn clichés, is just what I was as soon as I stepped foot in Semonkong. All Peace Corps Volunteers are the same. From whatever background we had in the states, we leave it all behind and start a new life. With that new life comes the tasks of building relationships, trusts, and confidence within that new community. I'll do the same thing when I head home, but there everything is much more subtle.
Matsitsi was too kind in considering me as hard a worker as any local farmer in Semonkong. These men, and women, start very early in the morning walking long distances to arrive at a field they will work in most of the day; many do this before taking their first, or only, meal which is usually later in the evening. I'm no slouch so I pull my weight but going all day without food; No Way. Even worse is Matsitsi telling me of how he would go all day without drinking any water. He would work in the fields and by the end of the day he would be “so very thirsty” he says. Nope, I couldn't work.
These farmers, laborers for their own survival, have my utmost respect. Semonkong is a harsh environment to have a farm and feed a family. The weather is cold, the warm season is short, and the soil is stressed and dry. I know this because I too am trying to grow what I can when I can.
My rough hands are a token of joy. I love growing things. Hard work is nothing to frown about and can be simply rewarding. It also takes up a great deal of time otherwise worryingly in need of filling out here. I also like being able to talk with farmers about their problems in the fields and to know what they are saying first hand because I see it for myself. Their problems aren't necessarily mine but solutions are all our responsibility. So, though Matsitsi is being very generous in his comment, there is a touch of happiness just to be grouped with these farmers for a moment.
Monday, April 27, 2009
I am the filthy American.
Both Palesa and Nthabileng think I am the worst kept person in the world. I told them it is because I don't have a woman keeping after me and they enthusiastically agree!
Several times they have taken things of mine and cleaned them for me because they were so disturbed by the discoloration. I clean, a lot, sweeping, mopping, scrubbing, I do it all. They want one level better. I had to tell Nthabileng that my back pack was dirty because I wanted people to know I had been places. All my pots have this dark discoloration on the outside from the gas stoves. Palesa hates it and is still trying to decide whether it's legitimate to say I am keeping them dirty so people will believe I do, in fact, cook though I am a man.
Thankfully, I rarely let anyone see the unmade bed in the other room!!
Several times they have taken things of mine and cleaned them for me because they were so disturbed by the discoloration. I clean, a lot, sweeping, mopping, scrubbing, I do it all. They want one level better. I had to tell Nthabileng that my back pack was dirty because I wanted people to know I had been places. All my pots have this dark discoloration on the outside from the gas stoves. Palesa hates it and is still trying to decide whether it's legitimate to say I am keeping them dirty so people will believe I do, in fact, cook though I am a man.
Thankfully, I rarely let anyone see the unmade bed in the other room!!
Buses and I are not getting along very well lately. Trying to get back to Semonkong I decided to wait for the afternoon 2pm bus. In light of recent events, my thought was the newer government buses are less likely not to have problems. I was wrong!
Half way through the trip and just before we started our climb up Thaba Putsoa, the mountain range before Semonkong, the bus dies. We are told there is no power. I have no idea what that means but we stopped in Ha Ramabanta to wait for another bus to rescue us. This is actually Casey's village but unfortunately Casey was still in Maseru so I was stuck waiting for another bus until 8:30pm. We didn't get to Semonkong until 10pm. On the bright side, they didn't try to continue driving and end up down some embankment and I have mastered the art of shuffling home in the darkest dark of Africa. For the record, I was not scared at all and made it home just fine! Next time I will take a real flashlight just in case!
Half way through the trip and just before we started our climb up Thaba Putsoa, the mountain range before Semonkong, the bus dies. We are told there is no power. I have no idea what that means but we stopped in Ha Ramabanta to wait for another bus to rescue us. This is actually Casey's village but unfortunately Casey was still in Maseru so I was stuck waiting for another bus until 8:30pm. We didn't get to Semonkong until 10pm. On the bright side, they didn't try to continue driving and end up down some embankment and I have mastered the art of shuffling home in the darkest dark of Africa. For the record, I was not scared at all and made it home just fine! Next time I will take a real flashlight just in case!
Don't freak out or anything. Lesotho is not burning!
You probably didn't even hear about it but there was an assassination attempt made on the Prime Minister on election day in South Africa. Opportunists are everywhere. The email I am posting is from a communications officer at the embassy that updated all of us on the sitch. I just thought it would interest someone. . . maybe.
U.S. EmbassyMaseru, LesothoWarden Message- Attempted Assassination of Prime MinisterApril 22, 2009This warden message alerts U.S. citizens to security incidents thatoccurred in the early morning hours of April 22, 2009, in Maseru.Local media are reporting the attempted assassination of Prime MinisterPakalitha Mosisili on April 22. Following this incident, sustainedgunfire was heard in Maseru West, and gunshots were also exchanged inthe areas surrounding Ratjomose Military Barracks, Makoanyane MilitaryBarracks and the National Abattoir between 3:00 a.m. and 10:00 a.m.Following the incident, three assailants fleeing the Prime Minister'sresidence carjacked a combi-bus/taxi in Thetsane Extension. Reportsindicate some of the assailants were killed and others apprehended bypolice, who are still actively seeking other suspects. There is noindication of Americans being targeted, and all gunfire appears to haveceased at this time.The U.S. Embassy advises all U.S. citizens to remain alert at all timesand to consider of the potential for crime throughout Lesotho. Weremind American citizens that they should stay current with mediacoverage of local events and be aware of their surroundings at alltimes.For the latest security information, Americans living and travelingabroad should regularly monitor the Department's Bureau of ConsularAffairs Internet web site <http://travel.state.gov/> , where the currentWorldwide Caution, Travel Alerts, Travel Warnings, andhealth-information resources can be found. In addition to informationon the Internet, travelers may obtain up-to-date information on securityconditions by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll-free in the U.S. or outsidethe U.S. on a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers areavailable from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday throughFriday (except U.S. federal holidays).The U.S. Embassy continues to encourage U.S. citizens living in ortraveling in Lesotho to register with the nearest U.S. Embassy throughthe State Department's travel registration website,https://travelregistration.state.gov/, and to obtain updated informationon travel and security in Lesotho. Americans without Internet accessmay register directly with the nearest U.S. Embassy.The U.S. Embassy in Maseru is located at 254 Kingsway Avenue, tel. (266)2231-2666. The after-hours emergency telephone number is (266)5888-4035. Office hours are Monday-Thursday, 7:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. andFriday, 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. The U.S. Embassy website ishttp://maseru.usembassy.gov/.
You probably didn't even hear about it but there was an assassination attempt made on the Prime Minister on election day in South Africa. Opportunists are everywhere. The email I am posting is from a communications officer at the embassy that updated all of us on the sitch. I just thought it would interest someone. . . maybe.
U.S. EmbassyMaseru, LesothoWarden Message- Attempted Assassination of Prime MinisterApril 22, 2009This warden message alerts U.S. citizens to security incidents thatoccurred in the early morning hours of April 22, 2009, in Maseru.Local media are reporting the attempted assassination of Prime MinisterPakalitha Mosisili on April 22. Following this incident, sustainedgunfire was heard in Maseru West, and gunshots were also exchanged inthe areas surrounding Ratjomose Military Barracks, Makoanyane MilitaryBarracks and the National Abattoir between 3:00 a.m. and 10:00 a.m.Following the incident, three assailants fleeing the Prime Minister'sresidence carjacked a combi-bus/taxi in Thetsane Extension. Reportsindicate some of the assailants were killed and others apprehended bypolice, who are still actively seeking other suspects. There is noindication of Americans being targeted, and all gunfire appears to haveceased at this time.The U.S. Embassy advises all U.S. citizens to remain alert at all timesand to consider of the potential for crime throughout Lesotho. Weremind American citizens that they should stay current with mediacoverage of local events and be aware of their surroundings at alltimes.For the latest security information, Americans living and travelingabroad should regularly monitor the Department's Bureau of ConsularAffairs Internet web site <http://travel.state.gov/> , where the currentWorldwide Caution, Travel Alerts, Travel Warnings, andhealth-information resources can be found. In addition to informationon the Internet, travelers may obtain up-to-date information on securityconditions by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll-free in the U.S. or outsidethe U.S. on a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers areavailable from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday throughFriday (except U.S. federal holidays).The U.S. Embassy continues to encourage U.S. citizens living in ortraveling in Lesotho to register with the nearest U.S. Embassy throughthe State Department's travel registration website,https://travelregistration.state.gov/, and to obtain updated informationon travel and security in Lesotho. Americans without Internet accessmay register directly with the nearest U.S. Embassy.The U.S. Embassy in Maseru is located at 254 Kingsway Avenue, tel. (266)2231-2666. The after-hours emergency telephone number is (266)5888-4035. Office hours are Monday-Thursday, 7:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. andFriday, 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. The U.S. Embassy website ishttp://maseru.usembassy.gov/.
Well the time has come again for another group of CHEDs (Community Health Economic Development) to leave. Unfortunately, CHED '07 is an awesome group of people and helped us transition to Lesotho. My winter just got a little more drab... **an icy tear for them!**
Anyway, they had their COS Banquet this past week; April 22nd. It was good times and great to see everyone. I think almost the whole CHED '08 group (the group I came with) came in to see these guys off.
Some of you might see the few pictures of me with a mohawk. That's right, the hair is growing out and that hawk was my ticket to be Casey's date. No, I could not resist!
Anyway, they had their COS Banquet this past week; April 22nd. It was good times and great to see everyone. I think almost the whole CHED '08 group (the group I came with) came in to see these guys off.
Some of you might see the few pictures of me with a mohawk. That's right, the hair is growing out and that hawk was my ticket to be Casey's date. No, I could not resist!
Made a weekend trip to Bloemfontein and now I see why Peace Corps volunteers consume such great quantities of alcohol. It's no wonder when you visit them at site where there is nothing to do and then travel with them to places that have nothing to do!
Bloem, as the locals call it, is a provincial capital for the Free State area and it is also the Judicial capital for all of South Africa. This doesn't sound very exciting because it really isn't. Basically you are looking at the melding of Afrikaner Free Staters and the recently empowered black government living together. Like much else in Africa, it is a work in progress.
The town doesn't have much to offer to a Westerner coming to visit Africa and it may be nothing more than a gas stop to most but to Lesotho's Peace Corps community Bloem is a sweet haven of civilization, better food, and two movie theaters. Nothing could be more amazing. Unfortunately for Casey and I, the movies were less than spectacular. No Casey did not want to drag me to the newest Chick-flick so we ended up seeing the newest Underworld movie; Rise of the Lychin (sp??). It was good and for a movie that is basically made to fill in gaps from the previous one, the story was pretty interesting.
Other than that and some decent food in town, Casey and I sat out at the Waterfront area drinking a few beers and enjoying the extreme lack of a donkey smell in the area. Woolworth Foods and Pick-n-Pay are heaven for anyone who loves food but a distinct hell for a volunteer on a strict 'cheap is best' budget. We did get a few good things and the Panini sandwiches with cheese were amazing.
Our backpackers, Backpackers at Naval Hill (lodging), was alright but what made it was Ann and her family's kindness. They were more than helpful with tips and places to go. We are also extremely thankful for the info about the Satanists. Witnessing burning baby sacrifices was not part of my vacation plans.
Casey is awesome to travel with though this is the only trip I have ever made with her. It's a shame she is peacin' out and heading home. She will be missed but already has an awesome trip planned in Costa Rica to work with a friend.
This reminds me that if ANYONE hears of or knows of work, keep me in mind. I like real paying jobs just as much as the next person! Cheers!
Bloem, as the locals call it, is a provincial capital for the Free State area and it is also the Judicial capital for all of South Africa. This doesn't sound very exciting because it really isn't. Basically you are looking at the melding of Afrikaner Free Staters and the recently empowered black government living together. Like much else in Africa, it is a work in progress.
The town doesn't have much to offer to a Westerner coming to visit Africa and it may be nothing more than a gas stop to most but to Lesotho's Peace Corps community Bloem is a sweet haven of civilization, better food, and two movie theaters. Nothing could be more amazing. Unfortunately for Casey and I, the movies were less than spectacular. No Casey did not want to drag me to the newest Chick-flick so we ended up seeing the newest Underworld movie; Rise of the Lychin (sp??). It was good and for a movie that is basically made to fill in gaps from the previous one, the story was pretty interesting.
Other than that and some decent food in town, Casey and I sat out at the Waterfront area drinking a few beers and enjoying the extreme lack of a donkey smell in the area. Woolworth Foods and Pick-n-Pay are heaven for anyone who loves food but a distinct hell for a volunteer on a strict 'cheap is best' budget. We did get a few good things and the Panini sandwiches with cheese were amazing.
Our backpackers, Backpackers at Naval Hill (lodging), was alright but what made it was Ann and her family's kindness. They were more than helpful with tips and places to go. We are also extremely thankful for the info about the Satanists. Witnessing burning baby sacrifices was not part of my vacation plans.
Casey is awesome to travel with though this is the only trip I have ever made with her. It's a shame she is peacin' out and heading home. She will be missed but already has an awesome trip planned in Costa Rica to work with a friend.
This reminds me that if ANYONE hears of or knows of work, keep me in mind. I like real paying jobs just as much as the next person! Cheers!
Monday, April 13, 2009
Monday, 4/13: Today I have off for the Easter Holiday the same as most Basotho. The holiday's always see an increase in customers riding public transport from Maseru headed out to Semonkong. A line of hundreds has formed since the early hours of the morning with people headed back to Maseru and elsewhere. The bus companies try to keep up with the swell in the number of people but inevitably fall short, but attempting to accommodate in a timely manner isn't always the safest.
Proof of this occurred this morning between 7:30 and 8am about thirteen miles (about 20 km) outside of Semonkong when one of the buses went off the side of the road and halfway down an embankment.
It was a fairly straight stretch with slight bends and a strong upward grade. This kept the bus at low speeds. Looking at the site, it is a thankful wonder how the bus didn't begin to role side over side. Instead, it ran into two large boulders about 50 feet down the embankment where it rests with a strong lean on its left side. The front end took most of the damage due to careening into the boulder that stopped the bus.
There were many injuries but mostly everything was minor. Reportedly, four people including the driver were in pretty bad shape with injuries to the back and legs. Others had arms, legs, and feet that needed x-rays to determine if they were, in fact, broken. Most others had bruising and abrasions that were treated at the site and again looked at here in the Mission's clinic to identify where stitches were needed.
Fortunately, we can say it could have been worse and only hope that everyone recovers.
I was running up the road at the time and when I reached the site it was a mess of people all standing and staring at the bus below. It was about an hour after it happened and the first vehicles taking the injured passed me just as I reached that last hill.
Everyone was very shaken up. There were still those that had serious injuries when I arrived but were forced to wait for additional transportation. One family from Cape town that I had met at the Lodge a couple nights before did stop and had a first aid kit to help patch up people and clean injuries while they waited. It was a really awful feeling to know I couldn't help treat people once there were supplies available. I'm still not too sure how I feel about that Peace Corps rule but at the time I tried to make myself as useful as possible. Just by chance, the family came well prepared with supplies and some first responder training. Finally, a group, of which two were doctors, arrived and offered their services even heading back to Semonkong to help in the clinic.
There are obvious rumors of a tired driver or some story about a faulty stirring rod. Obvious, quick conclusions can be drawn just from the fact that Kwela Bus service is using the most run down of all the buses that service Semonkong. Even more disturbing is the increase in driving time that drivers see during the holiday season. That then is compounded by their own tendency to participate in the festivities after work.
We will have to see what flushes out from the police investigation, if anything substantial at all. Hopefully, however, this will alert people of more serious problems: poor vehicle condition limping between Semonkong and Maseru, overloading vehicles, staff that are overworking and no formal regulation of driver time. These issues will continue to be contributing factors to a very poor road environment. It is only this time that everyone has come out with so few serious injuries.
Proof of this occurred this morning between 7:30 and 8am about thirteen miles (about 20 km) outside of Semonkong when one of the buses went off the side of the road and halfway down an embankment.
It was a fairly straight stretch with slight bends and a strong upward grade. This kept the bus at low speeds. Looking at the site, it is a thankful wonder how the bus didn't begin to role side over side. Instead, it ran into two large boulders about 50 feet down the embankment where it rests with a strong lean on its left side. The front end took most of the damage due to careening into the boulder that stopped the bus.
There were many injuries but mostly everything was minor. Reportedly, four people including the driver were in pretty bad shape with injuries to the back and legs. Others had arms, legs, and feet that needed x-rays to determine if they were, in fact, broken. Most others had bruising and abrasions that were treated at the site and again looked at here in the Mission's clinic to identify where stitches were needed.
Fortunately, we can say it could have been worse and only hope that everyone recovers.
I was running up the road at the time and when I reached the site it was a mess of people all standing and staring at the bus below. It was about an hour after it happened and the first vehicles taking the injured passed me just as I reached that last hill.
Everyone was very shaken up. There were still those that had serious injuries when I arrived but were forced to wait for additional transportation. One family from Cape town that I had met at the Lodge a couple nights before did stop and had a first aid kit to help patch up people and clean injuries while they waited. It was a really awful feeling to know I couldn't help treat people once there were supplies available. I'm still not too sure how I feel about that Peace Corps rule but at the time I tried to make myself as useful as possible. Just by chance, the family came well prepared with supplies and some first responder training. Finally, a group, of which two were doctors, arrived and offered their services even heading back to Semonkong to help in the clinic.
There are obvious rumors of a tired driver or some story about a faulty stirring rod. Obvious, quick conclusions can be drawn just from the fact that Kwela Bus service is using the most run down of all the buses that service Semonkong. Even more disturbing is the increase in driving time that drivers see during the holiday season. That then is compounded by their own tendency to participate in the festivities after work.
We will have to see what flushes out from the police investigation, if anything substantial at all. Hopefully, however, this will alert people of more serious problems: poor vehicle condition limping between Semonkong and Maseru, overloading vehicles, staff that are overworking and no formal regulation of driver time. These issues will continue to be contributing factors to a very poor road environment. It is only this time that everyone has come out with so few serious injuries.
Happy Easter!
It was a good Easter. On Friday I did this crazy hike up to one of the tallest peaks outside of town and turned it into an all-day loop. Robbie and I hung out at the Lodge, met some cool people, and had an awesome dinner on Saturday. I ran both mornings, did some taichi, and made pancakes which were awesome. The mission has been extremely quiet because everyone who lives here including the boarding girls all went home to spend the holiday with family. The quiet is cool but I do miss the people and the noise. A few times I have gone to the local bars just to play some pool and see people in town. I have Monday off too so I plan on running out to Ha Phallang which is about 13 miles round trip. Surely gonna take it easy after that!
Much love to everyone. I enjoyed the call Sunday night from everyone! It was great to hear everyone there!
Much love to everyone. I enjoyed the call Sunday night from everyone! It was great to hear everyone there!
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Went out to Ha Moahloli Thursday. This is the village where the BTCV group from the UK helped to build a community garden. Apparently, the garden is looking pretty scrappy and the indigenous plants have all died.
Ntate Matsitsi, the staff member who works in Ha Moahloli, has been trying to gather people to build a grow box at the nursery too but no one has come to collect stone. This has left Matsitsi and another staff member to work in the village alone. I flat out told Ntate Matsitsi that he should stop working on the grow box until people come to help. I even suggested that we auction off the purchased materials for the grow box to other villages. They can pay by the show of how much stone they have collected and community participation they gather. The donors, however, may not like that too much! Matsitsi knew what I was saying but part of the problem is everyone knows it's his job to work on these projects. I guess he must complete them even if no one else wants it completed. And that's the face of wasted time on an un-sustainable project.
Well this trip with Nthabileng to the nursery was to look at the site and talk to people responsible for watering and caring for the place. I went to lend another critical eye and to see for my self what's going on. By the look of everything the place could use some more lovin'.
The women who are responsible for the site are frustrated because they were promised payment for their work. It never seemed to occur to anyone to explain the labor needed to have a working nursery for indigenous plants, vegetables, and eventually fruit trees or the potential reward from their work. KMA also doesn't have the money to pay its own staff, much less to pay these guys. The idea of volunteers in Lesotho has been warped anyway. More accurately people are volunteering for work and expect to be paid for their attendance.
At least the site has a fancy new sign. It is meant to greet tourists and officials visiting the site. No one considered that people must find their way, first from Semonkong, and then to a village off the road and up the mountain. It hasn't even been a year and the well thought out mess seems destined to go the way of other 'white elephants'; those projects funded by good intentions but disconnected from the communities within which they are established.
I haven't determined if the community is just waiting for the BTCVs to return next year and not go home instead working there permanently or if everyone is just waiting for a constant paycheck. Either way they are wasting a good opportunity. There is a similar problem with the Organic Farming group who are starting to fray at the thought of the idea and the amount of work.
The problems don't seem to have a similar fix but I hope I can show just the opposite. Thinking for both groups like I would think for my self if I was preparing such a business venture, I realized that no one has actually sat down with everyone involved and discussed the actual benefits of such projects. No one has done any kind of market research and presented it to the members. Anyone else would want to look at potential savings or additional profits making extra effort worth the changes needed. I hope, at least, that I can take the group through this process and help them to understand the possibilities. Otherwise all the other trainings meant for these groups during the winter are pointless for a group that isn't sure why they are changing their methods in the first place.
Ntate Matsitsi, the staff member who works in Ha Moahloli, has been trying to gather people to build a grow box at the nursery too but no one has come to collect stone. This has left Matsitsi and another staff member to work in the village alone. I flat out told Ntate Matsitsi that he should stop working on the grow box until people come to help. I even suggested that we auction off the purchased materials for the grow box to other villages. They can pay by the show of how much stone they have collected and community participation they gather. The donors, however, may not like that too much! Matsitsi knew what I was saying but part of the problem is everyone knows it's his job to work on these projects. I guess he must complete them even if no one else wants it completed. And that's the face of wasted time on an un-sustainable project.
Well this trip with Nthabileng to the nursery was to look at the site and talk to people responsible for watering and caring for the place. I went to lend another critical eye and to see for my self what's going on. By the look of everything the place could use some more lovin'.
The women who are responsible for the site are frustrated because they were promised payment for their work. It never seemed to occur to anyone to explain the labor needed to have a working nursery for indigenous plants, vegetables, and eventually fruit trees or the potential reward from their work. KMA also doesn't have the money to pay its own staff, much less to pay these guys. The idea of volunteers in Lesotho has been warped anyway. More accurately people are volunteering for work and expect to be paid for their attendance.
At least the site has a fancy new sign. It is meant to greet tourists and officials visiting the site. No one considered that people must find their way, first from Semonkong, and then to a village off the road and up the mountain. It hasn't even been a year and the well thought out mess seems destined to go the way of other 'white elephants'; those projects funded by good intentions but disconnected from the communities within which they are established.
I haven't determined if the community is just waiting for the BTCVs to return next year and not go home instead working there permanently or if everyone is just waiting for a constant paycheck. Either way they are wasting a good opportunity. There is a similar problem with the Organic Farming group who are starting to fray at the thought of the idea and the amount of work.
The problems don't seem to have a similar fix but I hope I can show just the opposite. Thinking for both groups like I would think for my self if I was preparing such a business venture, I realized that no one has actually sat down with everyone involved and discussed the actual benefits of such projects. No one has done any kind of market research and presented it to the members. Anyone else would want to look at potential savings or additional profits making extra effort worth the changes needed. I hope, at least, that I can take the group through this process and help them to understand the possibilities. Otherwise all the other trainings meant for these groups during the winter are pointless for a group that isn't sure why they are changing their methods in the first place.
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